Pampered like a Prince at Charles’ special spa
Caviar facials. Mud massages for men. What it’s like to be...
When it comes to spas, I’m the ultimate picky princess. Over the past 30 years as a well-being writer, I’ve put some of the world’s poshest palaces through their paces.
So I was intrigued when I heard about Monart Day Spa in Poundbury, Prince Charles’s experimental village near Dorchester in Dorset, built to his exacting standards. The spa is its latest amenity, opened by hRh himself. But is it fit for a prince or princess?
Since building started in 1993, the Prince’s project has been both praised and pummelled in equal measure.
Fans cheer its sustainable, carbon-neutral aims; its desire to build community and its commitment to affordable housing (35 per cent of its housing stock is for rental or shared ownership).
Critics jeer, calling it a ‘feudal Disneyland’, which lacks architectural vision and is little more than an overpriced, oversized retirement village.
My first impression was that it was pretty, but slightly unsettling — as if an issue of Country Living had come to life.
I asked a woman outside Waitrose what it’s like to live there.
‘A bit weird, to be honest,’ she said. ‘When the flags go up to show the Prince is coming, everyone jumps. People race around filling in potholes and plastering cracks so everything’s perfect.’
‘But it’s a wonderful place to live — friendly, convenient, clean and safe,’ chipped in another woman.
The spa is housed in the lower levels of the Royal Pavilion in Queen Mother Square. The brand-new neo-classical buildings are imposing, and a statue of the Queen Mum watches over proceedings. There’s also a pub — The Duchess of Cornwall — and an estate agent, as well as a pint-sized Waitrose.
Poundbury looks perfect until you walk around the Royal Pavilion and hit . . . nothing. The buildings give way to a straggle of hoardings. The project is still not finished, resulting in an odd atmosphere. It reminded me of the film The Truman Show, where the whole town is an elaborate stage set.
SO I swiftly retraced my steps to the front of the Royal Pavilion, and, the moment I pushed open the heavy front doors of hRh’s new spa, that surreal feeling vanished. The reception area is intimate and welcoming.
Many spas are built to impress, on an imposing scale, and that first approach, walking across acres of marble floor to reception, can feel intimidating. This is quite different — luxurious, for sure, but also cosy and warm.
The decor, predominantly soft grey and teal, makes it feel both soothingly homely and sumptuous. Part boudoir, part gentleman’s club, it cunningly contrives to appeal to both men and women, and so far the clientele is a 50-50 mix — unusual for a UK spa.
I hunted desperately to find smudged paint or even a speck of dust, but nope, not a thing. Maintenance verges on the obsessive, apparently. ‘Absolutely everything is checked, all the time,’ said spa manager Jo Bullock.
Apparently, when Prince Charles opened the spa, he was intrigued by the thermal suite, and I indulged myself with a vision of Camilla lounging on one of the therapeutic beds by the pool, ordering him to stay under the hydrotherapy jets a bit longer to ease off that shoulder tension.
The spa is compact, but well designed, so it would be possible for harry and Meghan to avoid bumping into William and Kate, if the supposed ‘chill’ still remains — pop the Cambridges in the sauna while the Sussexes cool down in the ‘highland Mist’ shower. The children would have to stay at home, though — the spa is strictly over-18s only.
In the main relaxation area screens divide the space, so you have privacy as you sip herbal tea. I’m asked which couch I would like. I chose one tucked away in a snug corner. A name card is placed on it and I’m told it’s mine for the whole day. now that is a genius idea and one I really wish all spas would adopt.
If you’ve never been to a spa, it can be confusing, embarrassing even, if you don’t know what to do or how to use things. here, nothing is assumed and you’re given clear instructions on how to spend a very happy couple of hours in the thermal suite.
You can potter from the himalayan Salt Grotto (supposedly good for the lungs and immune system), through the Sanarium (warm but not sweltering, to ease muscles and sore joints) and then ramp up the temperature in the sauna or steam room.
In busy spas, the latter can often become tepid with people charging in and out, but, here, they keep guest numbers restricted (no more than 25 people at a time), so the spa never feels overcrowded and the steam room stays, well, steamy. Good bodywork is the other vital component of a top spa. So next, I settle down on the (deliciously warmed) couch in one of Monart’s plush treatment rooms for a Lumafirm® body massage (£90 for 55 minutes).
Massage might feel like a pampering indulgence, but done well, it has a host of health benefits: it boosts circulation of both blood and lymph fluid, reduces stress and muscle tension, increases joint flexibility, improves skin tone and can ease pain — quite apart from being supremely relaxing.
My mind was buzzing and I honestly didn’t think I’d switch off, but somehow it happened.
Massage therapist Deneka explained that she uses repetitive circular movements, going clockwise for a while, and then switching direction. ‘It confuses the mind,’ she said. ‘So after a while it gives up and lets go.’ Clever.
Three beauty ranges are on offer, each hitting a specific note: Pevonia, majoring in marine and botanical extracts; Zelens, a hi-tech range developed by plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Marko Lens, an expert in skin ageing; and Made for Life (formally Spiezia Organics). This 100 per cent organic range is suitable for everyone, even people living with cancer who are often turned away from spa treatment rooms.
Men are well catered for, too and I rather liked the idea of Prince Charles pitching up for the Gentleman’s Retreat aimed at the ‘discerning man’ (£195 for a half day with one treatment).
I’d prescribe the Full Body Moor Mud Tension Relief treatment for him, or the Pevonia Skinfit MyoxyCaviar facial which might soothe his flushed face.
AFTeR a morning of pampering, I was looking forward to lunch, but sadly it was a little underwhelming.
My chilli-glazed salmon with a trio of salads was tasty enough, but the flavours didn’t really zing. And while the portions were certainly generous, I would have expected more imaginative presentation from a spa.
All in all, the spa is really very lovely, and with introductory offers starting from £45 for two hours in the thermal suite (until March 31), it’s not too expensive. But the big question is will Charles and Camilla get to enjoy it?
‘It’s just like a smart London spa — of course they’ll try it,’ one of the women outside Waitrose told me.
The other nodded vigorously. ‘Camilla loves Poundbury,’ she said. ‘her sister lives nearby and did the interiors for The Duchess of Cornwall pub/hotel. So they’ll be coming — no doubt about it.’
MONART Day Spa, Royal Pavilion, Poundbury, Dorchester, Dorset DT1 3DX (relax@monartspa.co.uk; 01305 595000). Introductory prices start at £45 for two hours’ access to the thermal suite. A half-day package including lunch and a massage or facial costs £150.
(yes, he really has just launched one!)