WHERE TO STAY AND VISIT

– Hotel Awa Ruta (225 Km 27, tel. 56-652292020, www.hotelawa.cl), about 15 east of Puerto Varas on the road to Ensenada, is a contemporary design hotel on the Llanquihue lakeshore (pictured to the left, above). Overnighters are welcome, but it also offers packages and its own tours.

– Museo Colonial Alemán (Avenida Vicente Pérez Rosales s/n, Frutillar, tel. 56-652421142, www.museoaustral.cl) is a hillside architectural and historical museum about half an hour north of Puerto Varas, well worth a detour in its own right.

–Hostal Zapato Amarillo( Ruta U -55 Km 2.5, La Gruta, Puerto Octay, tel. 56-642210787, www.zapatoamarillo.cl) is an ar-

chitecturally distinctive Swiss-Chilean guesthouse with dispersed garden rooms, excellent breakfasts (included), and fine optional dinners. Tours and rental scooters are available. – Hotel Termas Puyehue Wellness &

Spa Resort (Ruta 215 Km 76, Puyehue, tel. 56-22-2936000, www.termaspuyehue.cl) is the classic Chilean lakes district hotel, but it’s not living on reputation — everything within has been modernised and upgraded, without sacrificing charm and tradition.

– CabañasNórdicas (GastónGuardas/n, Futrono,tel.56-9-64955008,www.cabanasnordicasfutrono.cl) offers spacious and

stylish accommodations overlooking the north shore of Lago Ranco, with easy (but s te ep) be achaccess.E as ywalking distan ce to downtown restaurants.

– At Termas Geométricas (Coñaripe, tel. 56-9-95359843, www. termas ge ometric as. cl),co lo ur fulboardwalks snake upa canyo nofc re eksand water falls with multiple hot springs pools for soaking (pictured to the left, below). There is a café, but no accommodations at the springs themselves.

– Hotel Antumalal (Camino Pucón a Villarrica Km 2, tel. 56-45-2441011, www.antumalal.com) has become a Chilean classic. Service is personalised — on the door of the roomappears nota number,but yo urna me.