DIRK HARTOG ISLAND
WHAT BETTER place to recharge than a remote island on the West Australian coast, accessible only by boat. I can’t think of a place I’d rather be than Dirk Hartog Island. First discovered by the Dutch sea captain Dirk Hartog, who climbed the cliff face at Inscription Point and used a copper nail to mount an etched pewter dish to a pole; the year was 1616.
The only way to access the island with a 4WD is via the barge that travels across the strait from the mainland at Blackies Beach Steep Point, a challenge in itself to get to. With the island being so isolated, you’ll need to be selfreliant and fires aren’t permitted within the national park, so pack a portable gas cooker. The ecological environment is fragile, too, so leave only footprints, take only photos and remove all rubbish.
Kieran Wardle and wife Tori have turned The Homestead area into an accommodation precinct for visitors, that include the rustic luxury Eco Lodge, an Ocean Villa and camping sites. In fact, they’re currently offering a Self-isolation Package at Jed’s Camp on Homestead Bay. For $250 per night, you’ll get camp fees for up to 10 adults, private bathroom and fresh hot-water showers and camp kitchen overlooking the ocean (w/ tables and chairs, gas barbecue and cooker), just BYO 4WD and fishing gear.
One of the island’s highlights is the Blow Holes, and after conquering a couple of rough dunes you’ll get to drive across one of the massive drifting sand dunes before the Indian Ocean comes into view. How active the Blow Holes are is dependent on the ocean swell, purring like a kitten some days but roaring like an angry dragon on others.
The National Park offers 4WD adventurers some amazing camping destinations and, while caravans are not permitted on the island, an off-road camper trailer will eat up the sandy tracks. Grab a site at Louisa Bay on the beautiful east coast of the island, it’s the perfect spot for the kids to swim, snorkel or paddleboard in the shallow water.
Just you and your partner? Try the seclusion at Turtle Bay and get some romance back in your life during these difficult times, with long walks along the white sandy beach or swimming in the turquoise Shark Bay water while keeping an eye out for whales, rays, dolphins and, of course, sharks.
If throwing in a line to wile away your self-isolation woes, Withnell Point, Urchin Point or The Block are the best spots; although, only Withnell Point is suitable for small children. Don’t forget to explore what curious items have been washed up on Mystery Beach and top off your visit by enjoying the last sunset in Australia at Herald Heights (it’s the most westerly point in Australia to watch the setting sun).
AS THE largest and most remote national park in Western Australia, Karlamilyi (Rudall River) is the perfect place to get back to nature. The corrugations at the Talawana Track end are savage and last for 30-odd kilometres, so less air in your tyres will help here. Check out the vistas as you hug the Fingoon Range, they’re absolutely stunning. Access from the north is via the Telfor/kiwirrkurra Road.
The park is accessible by high-clearance 4WD only and has no facilities, few signs and rough, unmaintained tracks and you’ll need to be self-sufficient and carry adequate water, food and fuel. A satellite phone or HF radio is highly recommended; although becoming more popular with overlanders, you still may not see anyone for days out here.
Rudall River was named by explorer Frank Hann when he met government surveyor William Rudall, who was searching for lost members of a scientific expedition. The traditional owners of the land, the Martu people, call the upper reaches of the river Waturarra and the lower reaches Karlamilyi.
The track into Desert Queen Baths is low-range stuff, but going slow allows you to soak in the natural beauty on show. Camping is permitted at the end of the vehicular track, with some shade available from the saplings. From here it’s a walk into the Desert Queen Baths via an unmarked, rocky trail. Many like to swim here, though the water is always extremely cold.
Camping is also allowed on the banks of Watrara Pool, a permanent waterhole lined with river gums on the Rudall River. You’re likely to spot mobs of camels roaming the plains out here. This is the better of the two camping areas as its more secluded and the waterhole has a sandy base, ideal for a swim. From here, it’s easy to take day trips out to Desert Queen Baths.
It’s not just the remoteness of this national park in the Pilbara that makes it so special, it’s also the beauty of the landscape with the desert oaks, bloodwoods and spinifex, and the permanent pools that attract more than 140 species of bird. The reptiles are hardy, too, bred tough for these conditions and more likely to be spotted during the cooler times of the day from dusk to dawn.
IT’S NOT JUST THE REMOTENESS OF THIS NATIONAL PARK IN THE PILBARA THAT MAKES IT SO SPECIAL, IT’S ALSO THE BEAUTY OF THE LANDSCAPE