Gears Get You to Going

area of Kampong Glam in Singapore is more than meets the eye. Beneath Haji Lane’s gentlemen’s barbers and Arab Street’s lively bar lies a centuries’ worth of history, one that is not only important to the Muslim community but for all who seek to understand the culture of an enclave.

The Pilgrim Hub

Tucked one lane away from Arab Street is Bussorah Street, once known as Kampong Kaji, or Pilgrim Village. It was here that Muslims travelling on the Hajj to Mecca would congregate, for their sailing ships departed from the port of Singapore on the journey to Jeddah.

Pilgrims hailed from present-day Borneo, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia, and it was recorded that as many as 10,000 pilgrims arrived in Singapore annually. By the mid-1900s, Kampong Glam had earned its reputation as the pilgrim hub in Southeast Asia.

The Journey of a Lifetime

The Hajj is one of Islam’s five pillars and an obligatory duty to be carried out by every physically and financially able Muslim at least once in his or her lifetime. After the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, steamers from European shipping companies provided a faster alternative to trading ships, which were small 100 to 300-tonne sailing ships.

For example, pilgrims that travelled during the northeast monsoon season from November to March took 65 days on the sailing ship, but only 25 days on the steamer. When the time came for the pilgrims to depart, prayers were held at Masjid Sultan with a huge send-off from family members.

Busy Bussorah Street

It was in Bussorah Street that an industry made up of travel agencies, money changers, lodging houses and religious garments inevitably sprung up to meet the needs of pilgrims waiting to board their ship. For example, the Hajjah Maimunah located on Jalan Pisang which has today become a popular restaurant, was once a lodging house.

Bussorah Street was also known for its sheikh hajis – pious men in the community known for their knowledge of the Hajj – who would provide religious classes in preparation for the pilgrims’ trip. Many also worked in Singapore to earn money for their passage, known as indentures.

The Pilgrim’s Belt

One such pilgrimage goods store that still exists today is V.S.S. Varusai Mohamed and Sons, located on 719 North Bridge Road. Established in 1935, it is one of the last few shops in Kampong Glam left selling pilgrimage goods like perfumes, skull caps, incense burners, blankets, towels and steel trunks for the long journey.

The money belt, especially, is worth a mention. Storeowner Haji Yusuf bin Mohd Noor became so well-known for his signature travel belts that he patented the “Varusai Makkah Zam Zam Belt”. Made of sturdy woven green frabic, the talipingganghaji has a small sewn-on money pouch that is used to secure the ihram cloth around a male pilgrim’s hips.

After 1975, the journeys by ship came to a halt. Pilgrimages to Mecca were now made by air, and travellers no longer had to pass through Kampong Glam. Though Singapore is no longer known as the regional centre for the Hajj, a few shops still carry on the traditions today, operating in an area rich with history. ag