Send us a postcard and win!
Interested in having your photographic work recognised?*
translates to “dawn of happiness” our guide, Tong, tells us with an appropriately wide grin as we pull out of the airport on a steaming, cloudless day in February. It’s the end of the dry season, and a milky Thai iced tea ( Chayen ชาเย็น ) – a shock of saccharine, foamy orange – goes down a treat. The lazy yawns I've been stifling since the early morning wake-up are swiftly substituted with a caffeine and condensed milk-induced buzz.
It’s my second time to the north of Thailand, and a lot has changed since. Back in 2011, I was making my way to Chiang Mai through swamped floodlands, and the late King Bhumibol was ruler; evidence of the former devastation has vanished, but the legacy of the latter lines the streets in silky swaths of black mourning banners. The beloved sovereign’s portrait flanks that of his son, newly crowned King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun, or Rama X.
Sleepy Sukhothai offers a reprieve from the throngs of tourists that descend on the gritty city of Bangkok. The quiet old town, while still host to all the conveniences that the modern traveller has come to expect, has not succumbed to touts and excess in the wake of tourist interest. The agrarian lifestyle of this community is still active and widely visible: Sluggish water buffalo amble by the roadside; rice farmers wade through lush paddies under the shade of their iconic, conical hats; and fruit sellers brandish banana bunches and bags of rambutans with an auctioneer’s enthusiasm.
It comes as little surprise, then, that Sukhothai is surrounded by water – 175 ponds, to be exact. The system of reservoirs provides the surrounding agricultural heartlands with a steady supply of irrigation – and keen photographers with the perfect mirror for capturing dramatic temple reflections.
However, the original construction of this labyrinth of waterways was for protection against invading enemies: Sukhothai stood as the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 14th centuries (1248–1439 AD), followed by Ayutthaya (around 1350–1767), Thonburi (1767–1782) and Bangkok, which claimed the title in 1782, and holds it today. Beyond the moats’ more militant purpose, they also provide meuanggòw – the “old city” – with a picturesque home for
Sukhothai
towering trees such as the Chan, a species of dragon tree ( Dracaena kaweesakii), the landscaping feels reminiscent of a setting in a Hans Christian Andersen story – mythical, even eerie at times in its quiet, making it a haven for culottesdonning meditators.
Wat Mahathat is the iconic viewpoint from which to watch the sunset. As the sun dips behind the horizon, the skyline of stupas forms the perfect silhouette – and photographers know it. While this is the most visited temple in the complex, it’s blissfully peaceful compared to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, which is consistently populated with hordes of visitors sporting selfie sticks. In comparison, the gardens surrounding Wat Mahathat allow visitors to claim a grassy spot and sit in relative solitude as the crickets sound out the end of the day, and the heat sinks into balmy evening.
For visitors looking to see out the end of the day in an even quieter location – without forfeiting a view of historical grandeur – the lesser known Sri Satchanalai (which translates to “city of good people”) – the second centre of the Sukhothai kingdom, and the former residence of the crown prince – is a magnificent alternative. Several temples, such as Wat Chang Lom, Wat Chedi Chet Thaiw and Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat, have been painstakingly restored, allowing visitors a window to their glorious past.
The sheer immensity of this area’s history is something of a rabbit hole, and if you feel like taking a tumble down it, the best place to do so is at the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum just outside the Sukhothai Historical Park. This carefully curated collection houses Khmer statues and Sukhothai Buddhas, Sawankholok ceramics and artefacts collected from the tributary cities of Sri Satchanalai, Kampaeng Petch, Petchaboon and Pijit.
All the cycling and walking is bound to work up an appetite, and Thailand is quite adept at living up to its reputation for phenomenal food. But forget your stock standard orders of Thai green curry and pad Thai of the mainstream Khaosan variety – the cuisine of the north has stashed some other ingredients in its pantry.
As the sun dips behind the horizon, the skyline of stupas forms the perfect silhouette – and photographers know it
Bangkok Airways flies to Sukhothai three times a day from Suvarnabhumi Airport. ( www.bangkokair.com) Flight time: 2 hours 25 minutes Flight time: 3 hours 20 minutes Flight time: 4 hours 30 minutes Flight time: 6 hours 30 minutes
• Singapore to Bangkok • Manila to Bangkok • Beijing to Bangkok • Tokyo to Bangkok