{ Diamond in the Rough
I imagine the world map without country labels, I’d place China, Russia, and Iran with ease. But between them, covering an area the same size as Western Europe, many would draw a blank. And that blank would be Kazakhstan.
The haziness with which we view Central Asia should come as no surprise. For 80 years, it was within the Soviet Union, and its emptiness (Kazakhstan is one of the most sparsely populated countries on Earth) made the country suitable for three things: launching space rockets, nuclear testing, and growing grain. Foreigners were kept at arm’s length.
But Kazakhstan celebrated 25 years of independence last year, and it’s forging its own place in the world. Natural resources have strengthened the economy, it’s a key link in Beijing’s Silk Road Economic Belt, and this summer the country hosted Expo 2017 – the World Fair – in Astana. I wanted to travel to Kazakhstan to fill in that blank space – to see for myself what was there.
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Gondoliers paddle their little boats through a miniature canal system reminiscent of the one in Venice, and a group of life-size tyrannosaurus, velociraptors, and triceratops in the Dinopark both scare and enthral children in equal measure.
Leaving the Khan Shatyr behind, I took a bus tour of Astana. I quickly understood why Kazakhstanis are so proud of their capital. There’s a definite architectural influence from Kazakhstan’s past – traditional nomadic motifs, mosques with
Altyn Emel’s highlight is its singing sand dunes, a curious natural phenomenon. When the wind blows across the dune (or someone walks on it), it makes a whistling sound. The noise is quite haunting, even when you know what it is.
It was late afternoon when I reached the dunes. The air temperature felt cool. Given the steepness of the dunes, this was no bad thing. Climbing on sand dunes is hot, tiring business. But when you do reach the top, the entirety of Altyn Emel spreads out before you. Light and shadow fall in a patchwork. Looking towards the mountains on the horizon there is only pristine wilderness, not a person or building in sight.
Kazakhstan is no longer a blank space on my mental map; it is a place of untold beauty imprinted on my mind. agp Central Kazakhstan experiences more extreme temperatures, whereas southern Kazakhstan enjoys a milder climate. Spring and autumn (particularly April and October) are good times to visit.
Catch the fast train from Astana to Almaty to head into the Alatau Mountains; visit the Altyn Emel National Park
Air Astana flies from various cities:
Flight time: Eight hours (three flights weekly)
Flight time: Seven hours (five flights weekly)
Flight time: Eight hours (three flights weekly)
Flight time: Seven hours (two flights weekly) Astana
WHEN WHERE HOW • Kuala Lumpur to Almaty • Bangkok to Almaty • Bangkok to Astana • Hong Kong to Almaty
KAZAKHSTAN
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