Australian Geographic

LORD HOWE ISLAND

AG Society Scientif ic Expedition 2018

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Participan­t Fiona Ruck reflects on the 2017

AGS Scientific Expedition to Lord Howe Island.

Book now for the

2018 trip.

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE that such a beautiful and pristine place as Lord Howe

Island exists nowadays; it’s like going back in time.

I was here on an AG Society

Scientific Expedition to look for new species of insects

– flies and spider wasps in particular. Everything on the island goes slower, including the ‘traffic’; most people opt for a bike. The few cars here have a speed limit of 25km/h. The ‘rush minute’, as the locals call it, occurs at about 3pm on weekdays when the schoolchil­dren (all 30 or so of them) leave school barefoot and head home. The ‘CBD’ consists of a couple of shops, a restaurant and a museum.

This island is a wonderful escape from all the busyness of city life – the emails and phone calls. I was very fortunate to stay at Pinetrees Lodge where Dani and Luke Hanson do a fantastic job of making each and every guest feel at home. There’s no wi-fi or mobile phone connection, only a communal landline. Local calls are free and a card is available for calls to the ‘mainland’, so it was truly refreshing to communicat­e with others without the aid of a smartphone. Everywhere people would greet one another and share stories. Many had been here several times and, having loved it so much, they c came back time and again.

There are about 300 r residents on the island and only 400 visitors are allowed at any one time – so n nowhere ever feels crowded.

On my first day I wandered along the Lagoon Road, and came across a few species of bird, so, as a nature p photograph­er, I was in my el element! One was a white tern. Th They’re interestin­g because th they lay their eggs directly on the branches of the pine trees here without building a nest. I also encountere­d a colourful buff-banded rail with her tiny black chicks in tow, pecking at the grass.

In the trees I heard the song of the Lord Howe golden whistler – a pretty yellow-coloured bird. I walked to Middle Beach where I saw hundreds of sooty terns flying directly overhead – and was glad I had my hat on! I was told there are colourful crabs on this beach that, when tickled, will squirt water: lots of fun for children.

‘Golden Hour’ approached and the sun was setting, so I headed for the boat shed on the beach that belongs to Pinetrees Lodge. It’s a relaxing place to sit and watch the sun disappear on the horizon.

The next day, the rest of the group arrived. What a great bunch of people! Everybody was very friendly and ready to have fun. We spent

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