JOSH NILAND

Sydney chef, restaurateur and boundary pusher Josh Niland has attracted rave reviews for his exciting and experimental seafood cookery. His Saint Peter restaurant is devoted entirely to sustainably sourced, Australian-only fish and has a fanatical following. His latest venture is Fish Butchery, a reimagining of the humble fish shop, selling sustainably caught fish in a glamorous marble-and-tile boutique among the fashion stores of Sydney’s Paddington.

There are lots of flavours to explore

with fish. We are currently infatuated with what I’m calling fish intercostal: that’s the meat in between the rib bones on a fish. Absolutely amazing on the grill. I’m experimenting all the time.

For the past 18 months I’ve been trying to achieve a delicious recipe for every single part of the fish, from fish black pudding

(utilising the blood) right through to chips made from fish eyes. This is the most exciting part of my work, which I love. My favourite easy meal for a

mid-week dinner is avocado on toast.

Sunday lunches at home are few and far between, but if we ever got the time as a family it would be a barbecue at home with lots of grilled food: beautiful vegies, some nice meat and maybe a fish or two from Fish Butchery. My favourite kitchen appliance is my

target top stove. My dream kitchen would include

a big, open, wood-fired hearth, marble counter tops that can be heated or chilled, and a fish cool room with a glass-encased wall. My pet hates are working in a mess and cooks not tasting their own food when preparing a meal. My favourite music to cook to would have to be something by Sam Cooke. The most influential cookbooks I’ve read are The Big Fat Duck Cookbook by Heston Blumenthal and The French Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller, Michael Ruhlman and Susie Heller. At the moment I’m too busy at the restaurant to entertain at home.

But when I do entertain at home I opt for very casual approach rather than anything formal. I think it brings me and my friends far more pleasure if we are all relaxed and eating and drinking well. My favourite background music for dining at home with friends

is anything from the 1950s or ’60s. I love that old-school music. Key piece of advice for anyone preparing a dinner party? Don’t bite off too much, keep it simple, play to your strengths and remember that, ultimately, your friends are just happy to be in your company and not have to do the dishes that night. I’ve always been fond of a good chardy as a favourite tipple with a meal. For people who aren’t confident

serving seafood to guests, I always advise keeping it really simple; do a little reading on what you are attempting or, if all else fails, come and see me at Fish Butchery and I’ll tell you what I would do! #

Saint Peter, 362 Oxford Street, Paddington, NSW: (02) 8937 2530 or saintpeter.com.au.

Fish Butchery, 388 Oxford Street

(a few doors from Saint Peter), Paddington, NSW; (02) 8068 0312 or fishbutchery.com.au.

‘My dream kitchen would include a big, open, wood-fired hearth, marble countertops that can be heated or chilled, and a fish cool room with a glass-encased wall.’