Australian House & Garden

Single Minded

Taste the difference with single-vineyard wines.

- writes Toni Paterson.

The most captivatin­g thing about good wine is that its taste can tell a story. One sip can reveal clues about where it was grown, its varietal compositio­n or its maker.

Wines reflective of their origin are endlessly fascinatin­g and the most intriguing of these are produced from a single plot of vines. The best examples have a signature that is evident even with seasonal variation.

What makes single-vineyard wines unique is that the grapes come from the same plot each year, so they display seasonal nuances. In warmer years, the wine displays a more generous flavour; cooler years result in more acidity and palate tension. These observatio­ns increase with time, so the wine becomes a snapshot of history.

Wineries using estate-grown fruit are a good source of single-vineyard wines. Henschke, for example, produces a number of single-vineyard options, including Mount Edelstone and the highly regarded Hill of Grace. The Hill of Grace Shiraz has been produced from a single vineyard since

1958. Yields are extremely low and the resulting wine is concentrat­ed, weighty and supple.

One of my favourites is Tyrrell’s multi awardwinni­ng Belford Semillon (current release is the 2014 vintage). Intense citrus flavours, depth and mid-palate richness are Belford Semillon’s hallmark, as is the length of flavour and ageing potential.

If you prefer chardonnay, Tapanappa’s Tiers Vineyard (Adelaide Hills) produces consistent­ly excellent examples, while Wynns Coonawarra Estate (Coonawarra) is showcasing a special red-field blend from the O’Deas block.

When a vineyard is small and the quality is superb, demand can outstrip supply. The best way to get your hands on your wine of choice is to become a winery member. Members often get access to wines long before the general public. Since quantities are small, prices can be high. But it’s well worth it: drinking a bottle of a rare and special wine like Hill of Grace is an utterly unforgetta­ble experience.

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