Perks of being a wallflower

HIDDEN away within a bustling pub and with serious GREEN credentials, a CHARMING little restaurant is making a name for itself as one of Perth’s best, FLEUR BAINGER writes.

WE ALL LOVE A CHEEKY LITTLE secret, right? Fleur is just that. Like a whispered conversation, she hides shyly inside a grandly restored historic hotel called The Royal, which sits smack bang at the heart of Perth’s metropolitan core. The 138-year-old balconied pub reopened its doors in November 2019, after a $13 million spit and polish which saw 1920s leadlight windows returned to glory, the original curling staircase freed from layers of dusty dormancy, and the unearthing of rollicking stories of shootouts and sheep tossing that had been long forgotten. The sprawling, filigree-edged watering hole is loud, brash and fun, with a clientele to match, whereas stepping into Fleur is like transforming into a butterfly. It’s quiet without being hushed, minimalist yet warm, delicate as well as eclectic, special but not intimidating and, at odds with its mood, affordable.

There are high ceilings, dramatic hanging flower arrangements, small tables for lovers young and old, and a long marble bar, set with cutlery. A huge light box illuminating a pair of red parrots crowns the main floor, neighboured with quirky photographic works of people sporting floral bouquet heads.

At my bar possie, I sip a very feminine ‘mar-tiny’ that’s teamed with a frozen pureed olive that, as it melts, progressively dirties the mini drink. The bar space is actually a near-seamless room extension – its wall-sized window is rectangular, not curved like the rest, and out on the pavement, the curb dips, from when service vehicles drove into the former alley.

Visible kitchen crew assemble refined, modern Australian dishes that lean to Japan, but preference fresh-as-a-daisy WA seafood. Raw scallops sit in a discernible flavour rainbow of soy, apple juice, sake and wakame oil. Confit quail is tender yet crisp, just like the rare duck teamed with a housemade crumpet spread with caramelised leg meat and miso granola. Sticky, creamy toothfish is textured with fired silverfish and wasabi leaf. Only desserts falter, by favouring savoury over sweet.

This 50 seater is as charming as it is beautiful, and soon, the secret will be out.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The intimate yet quirky interiors of Fleur; Donnybrook marron, kombu butter, egg noodle and tobiko; Considered drops form a curated wine list; Refined dishes include oyster, oyster cream, cucumber and yuzu.