A savory character

This tasty Mediterranean herb has a long tradition in both cooking and folk medicine

Two types of savory are used in cooking: summer savory (Satureja hortensis) and winter savory (S. montana). In some dishes they are virtually interchangeable, but their botanical differences may determine which you choose to grow.

Summer savory, the better known of the two, is an annual, while winter savory, sometimes called mountain savory, is a bushy perennial that some people find more convenient for the herb garden.

While the two savories — members of the Lamiaceae family and so related to thyme and rosemary — can be used in much the same ways and have very similar leaves and flowers, hortensis is generally considered to have a sweeter, more delicate flavour than montana, which is slightly stronger and more bitter.

Neither is commonly used in Australia. I only discovered them from trying out a recipe for pork medallions that called for dried savory and rosemary as the herbal flavouring in a delicious mushroom sauce to accompany the pork. For a herb lover like me, it was something of a revelation and the dish became a regular on our menu.

Savory is, however, very well known in Canada, where summer savory is traditionally used in poultry and pork dishes as well as meat pies; in France, where it is an ingredient in the standard herb mix herbes de Provence; and in Eastern European countries where it is used in many traditional dishes. Indeed, alongside salt and paprika, it takes pride of place on the Bulgarian table.

Both savories are native to the Mediterranean region of southern Europe and winter savory, as its specific name montana implies, grows in mountainous areas of southern Europe and North Africa.

The genus Satureja is reported to have been named by Pliny the Elder. The name comes from “satyr”, the mythological half-man, half-goat creatures who supposedly lived in fields of savory.

The Romans used savory for cooking and introduced it to Britain, along with thyme, basil and oregano.

The great 17th-century English herbalist and botanist John Parkinson wrote how winter savory was dried, powdered and mixed with grated breadcrumbs “to breade their meate, be it fish or flesh, to give it a quicker relish”. He also recommended it as “effectual to expel winde”.

MEDICINAL PROPERTIES

In folk medicine, savories are believed to possess antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antiparasitic and antiviral properties as well as

being immune stimulants and general tonics. Some of these claims are backed up by a few scientific studies.

The oil from winter savory has been shown to inhibit the growth of Candida albicans. In a study on mice, summer savory, one of nine herbs tested, was shown to counteract the effects of oxidative stress and a pro-inflammatory cascade of ageing brought on by the administration of D-galactose in the subject mice.

Summer savory’s anti-bacterial actions were demonstrated in an in-vitro study on the key bacteria in oral biofilms involved in gum disease. It concluded that “antibacterial and antigelatinolytic (inhibiting tongue carcinoma growth) activities of Satureja hortensis essential oil have potential for the treatment of periodontal inflammation”. Traditionally, both savories have been used for coughs and sore throats, digestive disorders ranging from indigestion to diarrhoea, and diabetes. The crushed leaves of either rubbed on insect bites and stings give instant relief.

It’s thought that as winter savory is stronger in flavour, it may also be a little more potent in its therapeutic benefits.

Savories are also a good source of vitamins and minerals, including potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and selenium.

GROWING

Winter savory is a bushy perennial that grows to around 30–60cm in height, while the annual summer savory is a more slender, leggier plant.

Both are quite hardy, liking a sunny position and moderately fertile, light, well-drained soil. They do well in the same kind of conditions as their relatives thyme and rosemary, so keep the water up when first planted and during the hotter months — but don’t over-water.

As Mediterranean herbs, the savories are adapted to chalky, slightly alkaline soils, so a little lime can be beneficial.

Mushroom compost makes a good soil conditioner or surface mulch for savories as well as other Mediterranean-climate herbs.

Winter savory can survive all but the worst frosts but will die off in summer heat. Mulch well to keep moisture in when the weather is hot and to protect from frost in the cold.

Seed or seedlings for both types can be bought from herb specialists. Plant seed in trays in late winter. Plant out seedlings about 30cm apart in spring or when soil temperatures reach 18–30°C.

Winter savory propagates well — perhaps better — from cuttings and can be used to grow a decorative hedge. Cut it back each spring to allow for new growth.

HARVESTING

Harvest just before flowering for better flavour and more therapeutic potency, though the bees and butterflies will love it if you let some go to flower.

Cut bunches and hang to dry. Use fresh or dried in cooking and for making a soothing tea for sore throats and coughs or for mild digestive disturbances. Infuse a few tablespoons of the leaves in a cup of boiling water.

WINTER SAVORY

Common name: Botanical name: Satureja montana Family: Lamiaceae (mint family) Aspect & soil: Sun to part shade; well-drained soil Best nd climate: Cool, Mediterranean, temperate Habit: Perennial semi-evergreen herb Propagation: Seedling, softwood cutting Difficulty: Easy