Fen Farm Dairy

Three centuries ago, the Su!olk market town of Bungay was famous for its raw-milk farmhouse butter, and the county was known as England’s butter capital. Now dairy farmers Jonny (pictured) and his wife Dulcie Crickmore are reviving Bungay’s traditions, hand-making raw cultured butter using unpasteurised cream from the milk of their grass-fed Montbéliarde cows. They make the butter in the traditional way, souring the cream using lactic bacteria, then churning and hand- paddling it with Scotch hands (wooden beaters). The result is a bright yellow, proteinrich butter with creamy, complex "lavours. The Crickmores also sell their herd’s raw milk from an on-farm vending machine, and make an unpasteurised Brie-de-meaux-style cheese called Baron Bigod.

‘People kept asking for butter,’ says Dulcie. ‘So when we discovered that Bungay had been famous for its butter, we wanted to recreate the way it’d been made. The unpasteurised milk and lactic culture give it great depth of "lavour.’

Buy Fen Farm’s butter at the farm, online at fenfarmdairy.co.uk or at selected delis (from £4.50 for 250g). Clare Hargreaves