Good Food

MARKETS & NEIGHBOURH­OOD RESTAURANT­S

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Lisbon, Portugal

Why go? The trick to Lisbon on a budget is keeping it simple. Public transport is cheap, but the city is small enough for you to walk almost everywhere.

What to eat For meals on a budget, tascas are the thing to look out for. These simple, local restaurant­s are everywhere. Don’t judge by appearance­s, they can be ugly from the outside, but the food is good, plentiful and cheap.

Try an alheira (a smoked, bready sausage) or bacalhau à lagareiro (salt cod baked in olive oil). To keep going during the day, cafés and snack bars can be found on almost every street. Co ee is never more than 60p for an espresso, and cakes and sandwiches are good value and filling.

In any restaurant, cheap or expensive, beware the couvert. It might be olives, pâtés, cheeses or hams, and can add considerab­ly to your bill. Just say no – it is always okay to ask to have them taken away. It is also always acceptable to share a dish – say ‘é para dividir’ – and you can ask for ‘água da torneira’ for tap water.

If you are self-catering, shop in markets for fresh produce. If you are on the west side of Av Liberdade, visit Mercado da Ribeira in Cais do Sodré, or, to the east, Mercado de 31 de Janeiro in Picoas, and get there before midday.

For the ‘Top 10 foods to try in Lisbon’, visit bbcgoodfoo­d. com/howto/guide/top-10things-eat-lisbon.

How to do it House rentals away from the centre can work out quite cheaply, especially if sharing with friends – check Airbnb and similar sites for bargain accommodat­ion ( airbnb.co.uk).

Lucy Pepper

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