Good Food

SEAFOOD & ISLANDS

- Sarah Barrell

Split, Croatia

Why go? Everyone seems to be singing Croatia’s praises these days, and Split, the lesser-known Roman port city on the Adriatic, is where foodies looking for a greatvalue break should head. What to eat The residentia­l, hillside Varoš district is a find for atmospheri­c, a"ordable tavernas. Try stalwart Konoba Varoš ( konobavaro­s.com), for its signature calamari with indulgent garlic mayo.

For just-caught, grilled fish and spreads of shellfish that challenge English translatio­n, book ahead for one of a dozen tables at Konoba Matejuška ( konobamate­juska.hr), in a 19th-century house just o" the seafront. Picnics on the beach are a boon for foodies. Buy tangy, green olive tapenade at Uje ( uje.hr) in the old town – this smart, olive-oil-focused outfit also owns a great tapas restaurant nearby.

Then stock up on sunripened provisions in Pazar Market, elegantly piled up against the crumbling walls of the Roman Diocletian’s Palace. Highlights here include homemade salamis, jars of heady amber honey, and smallholde­r’s crops of olives, almonds and ink-black cherries, plus peppery-pungent sheep’s cheese from the island of Pag. For giant wheels of crusty sourdough, pop just behind the fish market to Krušcic, an artisan bakery with a fanatical following. How to do it The best deals are rental apartments, via the likes of Airbnb. You’ll also get a good deal at the Dioklecija­n Hotel & Residence ( hoteldiokl­ecijan.com), which has a rooftop, sea-view pool, and generous bu"et breakfast included – £70 for a double. Flights from the UK take just over two hours and leave from many airports. Direct flights to Split operate on a seasonal basis.

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