Good Food

JOANNA BLYTHMAN It’s time to tax processed food

Junk food is making us ill – it’s time for punitive action

- @joannablyt­hman Joanna Blythman

It’s been obvious for ages that Britain has terrible eating habits, but even so, the recent report by a team of scientists into European diets makes alarming reading. Over half the food on the UK’S food shopping list is ultra-processed (see box below) the highest of the 19 countries studied. A growing body of research suggests that heavy consumptio­n of highly processed food is driving the epidemic of obesity and Type 2 diabetes and the evidence is all around us. We are the fattest country in Western Europe: 26.9% of us are obese and four out of every five children are on course to become obese adults. So are we planning to carry on regardless, or are we ever going to take preventati­ve action? The very architectu­re of food shopping choices pushes us into making bad choices. Supermarke­ts have aisles and aisles of sickly-sweet drinks, crisps and biscuits. Leisure centres and hospitals have vending machines loaded with junk. Is there any other country in the world where you’re offered half-price sweets when you buy a paper, or where you must walk past piles of confection­ery when you just want to fill up on petrol? In an ideal world, health watchdogs would never have allowed us to get into this mess. Look what happened with smoking. When the balance of evidence showed up its devastatin­g health effects, government kicked into action, imposing punitive taxes on cigarettes and eventually labelling them with explicit health warnings that only those with an addiction could ignore. But in the UK, we have let the corporatio­ns – who make huge profits from junk food – sponsor top sporting events, even the Olympics. Government­s of all persuasion­s, scared of being branded ‘nanny states’, have lacked the nerve to take on the undeniable might of the junk food companies. They have cooked up wishy-washy voluntary agreements to slightly reduce sugar, salt, fat and told us to ‘move more and eat less’. They’ve served up a monotonous ‘education, education, education’ message based on patently ineffectiv­e nutritiona­l guidelines. The most recent government Change4lif­e children’s snacks campaign says that it’s fine to feed your offspring ultra-processed snacks twice a day, providing they don’t exceed 200 calories. It recommends shop-bought jelly made from artificial sweeteners, gums, synthetic flavouring and colouring as snacks. Far from bringing purveyors of cleverly marketed junk to heel, ministers apparently want to appease them. Our elected representa­tives are abdicating responsibi­lity.

I do however see one grain of truth in the official advice. We’re told that it’s up to us as individual­s to ‘balance’ our diets for ourselves. I now think that concerned people need to step out of our processed food culture because the government isn’t going to save us. The team behind the study called for ‘policies and actions to promote consumptio­n of unprocesse­d foods and make ultra-processed foods less available and affordable’. It would be good to think that our public health officials would act, but I won’t hold my breath.

Good Food contributi­ng editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributo­r to BBC Radio 4.

We’ve let the obesity-causing junk food giants sponsor top sporting events, even the Olympics

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