FOR SUN-RIPENED VEG AND IDYLLIC SIMPLICITY
Situated in the heel of the ‘boot’ of Italy, Puglia’s veg-centric dishes show a special appreciation for the produce, whereby even the simplest of ingredients are elevated, like courgettes marinated and lightly seasoned in a light and perfectly balanced salad, and cima di rapa combined with garlic and anchovy to form the most flavoursome pasta sauce. Take a tour of this area and you will eat very well. At La Farmacia dei Sani in Ruffano (@osteriafarmaciadeisani ), Valentina Rizza, the head chef, cooks a pasta dish with anchovies and pistachios that is an absolute delight. Head to La Bersagliera, in Surano (+39 345 795 3080) where Raffaele Fabcullio serves plates of food based on the produce that surrounds him. He also runs private cooking classes for guests staying in the nearby Don Totu hotel. La Puritate in Gallipoli (+39 0833 264205 ) specialises in fish; try the salt-crusted red shrimps and for a truly hyperlocal meal visit Le Stanzie (lestanzie.com) in Supersano with its underground olive presses. They make their own ricotta, pasta and bread and grow their own veg.
For a truly cosseting hotel experience, Don Tuto, located in the small town of San Cassiano, is nothing short of idyllic and the staff are continually on hand. Rooms are available from £176 a night and include breakfast and an aperitif in the evening. dontotu.it