Affordable ways to explore the French Riviera
The French Riviera has long been one of the world’s most desirable destinations, famed for its limitless sunshine, stunning scenery, miles of golden beaches and, of course, fantastic food. However, with the super yachts of Cannes and the glamour of St Tropez, the Côte d’azur has also garnered a reputation for being the preserve of the rich and famous, so it’s unlikely to be in most travellers’ minds when considering a budget seaside break. But while the international glitterati descend on these well-known centres, French holidaymakers have long been in on a secret – Hyères. In this picturesque seaside town just east of Toulon, you can find beaches, sunshine and seafood at a fraction of the price of its famous neighbours. Catering primarily to a domestic market, Hyères is not only cheaper but also quieter, and retains a local, authentic feel.
Although there’s more than enough on the mainland for a week’s break, it’s the island of Porquerolles, one of the Golden Isles, just a 20-minute ferry ride away, that’s the area’s standout destination. The island was purchased by the French state in the 1970s, meaning it’s mercifully protected from development. Although it attracts lots of visitors, the terrain remains beautifully untouched, with just one port-side village alongside the rugged landscape and beaches. There’s also a ban on cars for visitors, so bike is the primary transport method. Many people visit just for the day before returning to Hyères, but there are a few hotels on the island, and it’s well worth staying for a couple of nights to explore.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
This being France, even tiny Porquerolles has a Michelin-starred restaurant, L’olivier at Le Mas du Langoustier hotel (langoustier.com), which offers refined French food in a pretty setting on the western tip of the island. Large windows allow you to gaze out to sea while feasting on freshly grilled langoustines and red mullet in coriander butter, served with glasses of local island wine. With tasting menus starting at £67, it’s more expensive than elsewhere on the island, but well worth it for a blow-out treat.
La Plage d’argent ( plage-dargent.com) is the only beachside restaurant on Porquerolles, and it makes the most of its setting, with a decked terrace jutting right up to the crystal-clear water. It’s only open for lunch, but it’s easy to spend a few hours here admiring the beautiful views, listening to the sound of the waves and eating freshly caught fish, salads, and local cheeses. Dishes from £16, ice creams from £3.
Restaurant le Pothuau (restaurantpothuau.fr) is a large, no-frills restaurant
on the Hyères seafront that specialises in bouillabaisse (the famous Provençal fish soup), and is popular with visitors and locals alike. Skip starters and go straight to the main event – a huge platter of fresh Mediterranean fish, mussels, and potatoes which you add to the rich fish soup along with rouille and garlic. It costs around £47, but is absolute heaven and big enough to feed an army. If you go for lunch, you certainly won’t need dinner. Chez Lulu ( facebook.com/chezluluhyeres) is a cosy Italian in the historic centre of Hyères, which also doubles as a shop with tall shelves stocked full of Italian products. Simplicity is the order of the day, with dishes such as fresh pasta and red pesto, and tender, fresh burrata. There’s also a small deli next door where you can grab a quick sandwich or salad to take away for lunch.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Both Porquerolles and Hyères are best done by bike. On the island, you can pick a bike up for £13 a day from any of the hire shops in the port. It’s probably best to go for a mountain bike, as the tracks are bumpy. In Hyères, meanwhile, an electric bike is a good shout to help you with the steep climbs through the narrow streets. Electric bikes are available at Loca Bike (locabikes.com) from £26 a day.
Places to eat close relatively early here, so don’t get caught out – book ahead or arrive close to opening time.
WHERE TO STAY
In Hyères, head to Hotel Castel Pierre Lisse (castel-pierre-lisse.com), an old house perched high on a hill above the town with spectacular views. The property once belonged to the novelist Edith Wharton, but was converted into a boutique hotel by its current owner, Nicolas Broche, who has filled it with quirky art and vintage furniture, and added a lovely outdoor pool. There’s no restaurant, but a breakfast of juice, coffee and pastries out on the sunny terrace is available. Doubles from £101.
On Porquerolles, the previously mentioned Le Mas du Langoustier is a luxurious four-star escape in a remote part of the island away from the port. In addition to its glorious location, it also offers well-appointed, traditionally decorated rooms, a swimming pool, tennis courts, and fine dining at L’olivier. You can use the hotel taxi boat to journey directly from the mainland to the hotel, but if you get the regular ferry, they will pick you up at the port. Half-board doubles from £140 a night.
Hotel Les Medes (hotel-les-medes.fr), conveniently located near the port, offers comfortable self-catering studios and several restaurants, making it an ideal choice for families (rooms from £92 a night). Bear in mind that hotels on Porquerolles are closed from October to May, but Hyères is open all year round.
HOW TO GET THERE
You can fly direct from Southampton to Toulon-hyères Airport. Another great option is to get the Eurostar to Paris, then change to a high-speed TGV train direct to Hyères, which takes just over four hours (from £21 one way). Ferry travel between Hyères and Porquerolles is operated by TLV-TVM and costs £17 for a return journey.
• Accommodation for this feature was provided by Hotel Castel Pierre Lisse and Le Mas du Langoustier, flights by Atout France (atout-france.fr).