FOR PUB LOVERS AND ROAD-TRIPPERS
The Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland
From the city hub of Galway, through rural Connemara up to the dramatic point of Erris Head, the Wild Atlantic Way lives up to its name. Smokehouses, fishing villages and family-run distilleries litter this Atlantic-pummelled coastline. One of two regions (along with North Brabant in the Netherlands) lately awarded European Region of Gastronomy status, Galway is leading Ireland’s gourmet revolution with no less than two Michelin-starred restaurants (Aniar and Loam). But affordable rustic coastal fare is still king. Sip on smooth Irish pale ales, sample air-dried lamb, an abundance of hard-hitting Irish cheeses, plus outstanding west coast crab. And don’t miss a glass of punchy poitín, the recently legalised pot-stilled grain spirit enjoying a craft-booze revival.
Kick off your trip with Sheena Dignam, the Franco-irish guide at Galway Food Tours ( galwayfoodtours.com; £47 per person). You can expect Atlantic oysters, slabs of creamy Irish goat’s cheese, and doughnuts hot from the fryer. Don’t miss the Kappa-ya sushi stall where you can sample Irish-influenced Japanese bites like mackerel maki from Galway bay. Follow with a whiskey tasting at the local Irish cultural centre ( galwaywhiskeytour.ie; £18 per person), with resident grain guru, Shane O’flanabhra, who serves up fabulous drams.
While away the evening at Kai (kaicaferestaurant.com), whose adventurous daily-changing menu is led by local suppliers. Sip an elderberry bellini and tuck into a plate of hogget with harissa yogurt (£20).
Before you hit the road, pick up some local bites from Mccambridge’s (mccambridges.com), a family-owned restaurant-cum-food hall packed with high-quality Irish produce. Set off for Clifden, and be sure to take the Sky Road loop for unparalleled views of the Ben Mountains. En route, visit Connemara Smokehouse (smokehouse.ie) to enjoy plates of the finest local fish. Mannion’s Bar (mannionsbarclifden.com) in the heart of Clifden does a must-eat chowder and soda bread (£6) that comes with a side of traditional live music after 6.30pm. Around 1 hour 20 minutes’ drive from Clifden lies Westport, a vibrant town; it’s a classic Wild Atlantic Way stop-off for a leg-stretch and more: go kayaking, kite surfing and stand-up paddle-boarding around Clew Bay, with Adventure Islands (collanmorelodge.com) and Clew Bay Kayaking (clewbaybikehire.ie/ sea-kayaking).
The final stop on your whirlwind west coast tour should be a walk along Erris Head. Inaccessible by road, fuel up first at Broadhaven Bay Hotel (broadhavenbay.com; mains from £10) in the town of Belmullet, one of the country’s few remaining Irish-speaking communities. The loop takes around two hours, a walk through beautiful untamed countryside of rolling fields and wind-beaten cliff edges. You’ll have definitely earned an Irish coffee on your return. How to do it Flights from the UK to Knock airport are from £29 one-way. For a scenic stay, check out hotels around Galway Bay. The Twelve hotel in Galway has a bakery, restaurant and artisanal pizza shop. Doubles from £150 per night, including dinner for two and breakfast. thetwelvehotel.ie. For further info, visit discoverireland.ie. Georgina Kiely • Assistance was provided by Tourism Ireland (tourismireland.com).