Good Food

COPENHAGEN

Home to scores of worldclass restaurant­s, but also teeming with bakeries, street-food stalls and small craft breweries, Copenhagen should be high on the travel hit-list for any food lover

- words JOEL PORTER

Abeautiful, relaxed waterside city packed with street-food stalls, cute coffee shops, bountiful bakeries, and some of the world’s best restaurant­s, Copenhagen is undoubtedl­y one of the great foodie capitals. It was put firmly on the global gastronomi­c map when a little restaurant called Noma (noma.dk) was first crowned Best Restaurant in the World in 2010.

Noma’s influence cannot be underestim­ated and traces of the New Nordic Cuisine it helped kickstart can be found all over the city, from the use of seasonal, foraged ingredient­s to the dominance of natural wine. Whilst Noma, now relaunched in a new purpose-built location on the city’s outskirts as Noma 2.0, remains the big draw, it’s just the tip of the iceberg. Copenhagen boasts many Michelin-starred places to eat including Noma’s sister restaurant 108 (108. dk), plus two of the World’s 50 Best Restaurant­s, Relae (restaurant-relae.dk/en) and Geranium ( geranium.dk/ en). Inventive tasting menus aren’t for the everyday, however – traditiona­l everyday highlights include hot dogs, a cherished Danish institutio­n sold from mobile carts, and thef la eskestegs sandwich( roast pork sandwich) made from thick slices of roasted pork neck nestled in a soft bun with crispy crackling, pickled cucumbers, red cabbage and a spicy mayonnaise. The city has fully embraced modern street food over the past few years with a new market called Reffen (reffen.dk/en) that opened in May, featuring 54 traders housed in shipping containers, plus bars, events spaces and parks set along the water’s edge. There’s also the more upmarket food hall Torvehalle­rne (torvehalle­rnekbh.dk) which has wine bars, fresh oysters and Hija de Sanchez

(hijadesanc­hez.dk), a taco stand from one of Noma’s former pastry chefs.

If pastries are your thing, Copenhagen is an absolute paradise, and at independen­t bakeries such as Mirabelle (mirabelle-bakery.dk/en) and Meyers (meyersmad.dk) you can find everything from cinnamon swirls to croissants filled with custard and rhubarb, plus a whole range of freshly-baked Nordicstyl­e loaves. It’s a good idea to arrive early, though, as the best bites get snapped up quickly by the locals.

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 ??  ?? Fresh cod with mashed potatoes is elevated to culinary art at La Banchina, located away from the centre of town at the city’s harbour. The menu changes daily depending on what is in season – and if the sun is out, feel free to take your meal out onto the quayside
Fresh cod with mashed potatoes is elevated to culinary art at La Banchina, located away from the centre of town at the city’s harbour. The menu changes daily depending on what is in season – and if the sun is out, feel free to take your meal out onto the quayside
 ??  ?? Refresh your senses with rhubarb, angelica and spent grain cream at Amass
Refresh your senses with rhubarb, angelica and spent grain cream at Amass
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