BEST OF DECEMBER
Rosie Birkett makes the most of the cauliflower season with a Middle Eastern-inspired main and cheesy bake
Rosie Birkett’s four genius ways with cauliflower
Over the past few years, we’ve embraced the bulbous brassica in creative ways
Acouple of years ago, I was commissioned by a women’s lifestyle magazine to write a piece about the seemingly unstoppable rise of the cauliflower. The magazine did an elaborate shoot to accompany the article, with cauliflower as a very modern vegetable pin-up against a rainbow of pop-art backgrounds. ‘Cauliflower is having a moment’, was the decree, but I’ve loved it since I was a kid, going weak at the knees for cauliflower cheese. It’s fair to say, though, that over the past few years we’ve embraced the bulbous brassica in increasingly creative ways, and, due to the rise of plant-based diets, and thanks to inspiration from increasingly veg-focused chefs, we’ve really begun to unlock its potential.
Its pale, subtly flavoured florets, stalk and leaves can all be used, so nothing is wasted. It works brilliantly when paired with both bold and muted flavours; is excellent with spice and also a good partner for rich, creamy ingredients. Cauliflower’s substantial texture has meant that we’re seeing it used more and more as a substitute for meat, and my recipe, overleaf, is a spin on a vegetarian course I served at a supper club a few years back. It makes for a deeply satisfying meat-free dinner – the fragrant nuttiness of the marinated cauliflower intensified by roasting, while the silky tomato and rose harissa sauce provides a sweet, sour, spicy foil for its pearly flesh. Chickpeas bulk out the dish to make a real meal of it, and toasted almonds and tahini yogurt provide textural contrast.
Roasting cauliflower with capers, pine nuts and sultanas makes for a delightful pasta dish (overleaf), either served warm or at room temperature. If you’d rather have it as a salad, simply leave out the pasta. The twice-baked cauliflower recipe is more of an indulgent dish, perfect as a starter or party canapé. Twice baking it – first in a smoked paprika-spiked batter to give it a crisp coating, then glazing it with a honeyed sesame and sriracha butter sauce – makes for a sweet, spicy, sticky and addictive treat. The final recipe is a spin on cauliflower cheese. The blanched cauliflower is coated in an onion and anchovy bechamel sauce, creating a beautifully balanced side dish to have with roast beef, pork or lamb, or as a meal in its own right. Feel free to add some crispy breadcrumbs for extra oomph. ALSO IN SEASON Brussels sprouts beetroot celeriac chestnuts cranberries kale leek parsnips pears pumpkin salsify sweet potatoes turnips