FOOD & FARMING
We’ve been getting to know the winners and runners-up of BBC Radio 4’s Food and Farming Awards. This month, we speak to food producer finalists Wild By Nature
We talk to food producer finalists Wild by Nature
The general consensus among conscientious omnivores is that we should be eating meat less often, with a focus on quality. It was this principle that Hereford farm, butcher shop and meat supplier Wild By Nature was built on, explains founder and chef Jake Townley. ‘Wild by Nature was started in 2017 with the goal of helping to mend a broken food system. We offer subscription boxes using meat from native-breed sheep, cattle and pigs – we think it’s possible to create a system where nature can thrive alongside farming practices. Our aim is to improve the life both in the soil and above it, rear meat that’s sustainable as well as delicious, and create a direct connection between producer and consumer. Everyone should be eating less red meat, but if it has to be eaten, it should be meat of this kind.’ But what makes Wild By Nature different? ‘There is no comparison between commercial farming and what we do. The main difference is that we have no break in the chain from farming to butchery – we even run events where you can eat the meat that’s been reared on the farm. We feed our cattle and sheep on pasture, and they’re never fed grain – the way nature intended. We also don’t allow any area to be heavily grazed, mimicking the natural grazing patterns of ancient herds. We can even tell you the breed, age and diet of the animals, and which fields they’ve been in. Most butchers can’t do that.’
Though Jake grew up on a farm, his family weren’t farmers themselves, and his drive for quality meat comes from having been a chef.
‘Every time a great piece of meat would come into the kitchen, I wanted to know more about it
– why did it look and taste that way, how long had it been aged, what breed was it? I wanted to put those pieces together and learn everything that happened before it got to the plate.’
Feasts and wood-fired Sunday lunches are run from the farm, but its main focus is the meat boxes.
‘We wanted to do something different and use my background as a chef to change things. So, rather than it all being fresh, only to be thrown in the freezer for the month ahead, we include a mix of fresh, cured and cooked products, like a heat-and-eat meal that’s made on the farm. Each box also contains a “wild-card” – something different to try, like a cheaper cut or some offal, which means we can use the whole animal.’ So, what did the nomination mean?
‘It’s been an uphill battle, having come into this with almost no farming experience, so to gain the recognition of the awards makes it all worthwhile. The nation is at a crucial point, with the health of our soils in rapid decline due to intensive farming, and this has given us a voice to spread our message.’ wildbynaturemeats.com @wildbynaturemeats