Good Food

What you can learn from Ollie Dabbous

The chef-patron at Michelin-starred Hide in London’s Mayfair shares his simple tips for impressive home cooking

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Every home cook should have have kitchen scales,a temperatur­e probe and a timer for consistent results every time. It is important to do the simple things consistent­ly well. These remove any element of risk. 2

Take your cooking to the next level by using good quality vinegars such as chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon or dashi vinegar to add a lovely note of sweet and sour. Acidity is something always recognised by profession­al chefs but less by the home cook. 3

My go to four-ingredient recipe is pappa al pomodoro. Fry some garlic in a generous amount of olive oil, then add canned cherry tomatoes, season, and simmer for 20 mins. Mix in some toasted bread to thicken, then leave to cool to just warm, not hot. Scatter over torn basil and an extra glug of olive oil. 4 A simple dish to impress dinner guests is a whole baked fish, portioned tableside. There is minimal work involved, but the end result is always a spectacle. I would always pick a meaty, flat fish such as turbot or halibut, rather than a round fish such as salmon or bass. Given their bone structure, they are easier to portion and don’t have pin-bones. Large skate would also work well. Serve with a homemade tartare sauce and some simple vegetables. 5 Pistou soup is a great vegetarian main course. Sweat some onion, fennel, carrot and leek in olive oil, add boiling water and cook until softened, then add some green vegetables, cherry tomatoes, cooked pasta and a big spoonful of pesto. Finish with some croutons and extra grated parmesan. Hearty, flavoursom­e and healthy, and minimal washing-up. 6

You don’t always need to use stock. Sometimes water is fine and the purity allows other flavours to shine, like with the pistou soup (above). 7

Cut down on food waste. Most parts of a vegetable can be used one way or another. Trimmings can be turned into a supper by adding some bacon, spices or cheese. They don’t have to be the star of the show; they can be a vehicle for other flavours instead. 8

When a dish goes wrong the easiest go-to rescue routine is to add enough other hearty flavours to turn it into something else completely – just disguise what it was originally. 9

The most fundamenta­l skill to master is to develop your palate: to taste food and understand what it needs to lift it, and when it needs nothing else. This comes with experience and confidence, but always trust your gut instinct and remember when tasting that you are having just a spoonful, not a whole plateful. 10

Utilising root vegetables will be the next big food trend. More to provide sweetness and mouthfeel for people that want to eat less dairy and sugar.

 ??  ?? Ollie Dabbous worked in several top kitchens including Le Manoir, The Fat Duck and Noma before opening his own restaurant, Dabbous, in London’s Fitzrovia. He closed Dabbous in 2017 to focus on new venture, Hide, opened in 2018. hide.co.uk
Ollie Dabbous worked in several top kitchens including Le Manoir, The Fat Duck and Noma before opening his own restaurant, Dabbous, in London’s Fitzrovia. He closed Dabbous in 2017 to focus on new venture, Hide, opened in 2018. hide.co.uk
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