Good Food

VISIT CHELTENHAM

An insider look at this food-focused city

- words CLARE FINNEY

Baker & Graze

It’s surprising­ly di cult to get a good slice of toast these days. Baker & Graze, a bakery/deli/café on Su olk Street, serves theirs topped with smashed avocado & smoked streaky bacon as well as more creative options like fennel sausages, cavolo nero & anchovy butter or nduja, labneh & pickled fennel (from £8), plus a host of salads, sandwiches and delicate pastries. But, it also elevates its homemade sourdough from sideshow to serious menu option by o ering it with a simple smear of homemade jam – a confident move that speaks volumes about its tangy, crusty quality. bakerandgr­aze.com KF CE CD

Koj

Andrew Kojima, a 2012 Masterchef finalist, spent five years earning his stripes before opening Koj, a Japanese ‘grazing’ (sharing plates) restaurant that eschews sushi in favour of dishes like panko cauliflowe­r and pork donburi (simmered pork mince with soy-pickled greens). The cocktails are punchy – as is the sake list – and the atmosphere is joyous. Koj was some time coming, but in it Kojima has truly proved himself a master chef. Five-dish bento menu from £24. kojchelten­ham. co.uk CD KF

The Coconut Tree

The brainchild of five Sri Lankans who grew up together in Colombo, The Coconut Tree is a converted boozerturn­ed-restaurant serving Sri Lankan street food in blue-and-white enamelware. Service is friendly and fast, and the food is a carnival of curries heady with coconut and turmeric, warm roti, hot battered spicy cuttlefish (a sort of grown-up calamari) and, of course, hoppers (coconut pancakes served with fruity, spicy sambals). Curries from £4, sides from £2.50). thecoconut-tree.com CD CE

The Royal Oak

While this pub is just outside Cheltenham, there are plenty of reasons to make a visit. It’s next to the famous race course, has log fires and a beautiful garden and serves veg from its own allotment as well as a range of local beers. The menu features sustainabl­y caught fish and bespoke products from local producers. Sample Butcombe beer chutneys made by nearby Rose Farm and cider-cured salmon from Severn & Wye Smokery in Gloucester­shire. Try the crispy lamb breast and chimichurr­i, or the traditiona­l Sunday roast (mains from £14.50, roasts from £12). butcombe.com/pubs/ the-royal-oak CD KF

The Cheesework­s

O ering a variety of farmhouse cheeses and exceptiona­l customer service, The Cheesework­s is a big step above your standard supermarke­t cheese counter. Cheeses line the walls, ready to be sampled, hand cut and wrapped in wax paper. While you wait for your order to be prepared, you can browse a selection of chutneys, ales and ciders

Sixways’ philosophy is to enjoy wine without taking it too seriously

(many of which are locally produced) and enjoy the family-run vibe. All of the sta are friendly, knowledgea­ble and passionate about cheese. thecheesew­orks.co.uk

Black Gold

This co ee shop might look like a saloon from the outside, but inside you’ll find filament-bulb fixtures, wing-backed armchairs and single-estate, sustainabl­y sourced co ee alongside a variety of cakes and treats. We like that Black Gold is so rooted in the community – the cakes are made by a Cheltenham resident, milk is sourced from the Cotswolds and even the crockery is made by a local pottery business. facebook.com/ blackgoldc­o eeshop CD CE

Sixways Wine Bar

There aren’t many bars that strike the sweet spot between sophistica­ted and laid-back, but in its debut wine bar and shop, Sixways has nailed it. Its verre de vin preservati­on system means its entire range can be o ered by the glass, allowing customers to try a variety without committing to a full bottle. Its philosophy of ‘enjoying wine without taking it too seriously’ is as amenable to connoisseu­rs coming in for a glass of Chateau Peyrabon as it is your average punter ordering a bottle of the house ‘Plonk Blanc’ (yes, they do call it that). While the night away with a drink and sharing board of cheese or charcuteri­e (from £14), or come for breakfast (from £2). cheltenham­wineco.co.uk/sixways-wine-bar CD

Le Champignon Sauvage

It would be remiss not to mention Le Champignon Sauvage, one of only a handful of restaurant­s in the UK to hold two Michelin stars for over a decade. While they lost one last year, you should still sample the cuisine of David Everitt-matthias – he’s been widely credited with cooking that’s years ahead of the curve. He and his wife, Helen, have run the

Relax with restaurant since 1987, and his food unites the a drink at principle of terroir and classic French fare with

Masa + Mezcal flashes of originalit­y – think wood pigeon with black pudding cream & choucroute of kohlrabi, and mango & Thai-spiced cream served with his famous Thai green curry sorbet. Two courses à la carte £60. lechampign­onsauvage.co.uk SO

Well Walk Tea Room

With its trinket-filled shelves, polka-dot tablecloth­s and bountiful floral prints, Well Walk Tea Room is as much ‘twee room’ as tea room. Even if the decor isn’t your thing, the scones will be: plump, slightly craggy, tender and served warm with homemade strawberry preserve and clotted cream. Its sandwiches and cakes are generously filled and thickly sliced, the work of baker Isabelle. It’s a celebratio­n of local ingredient­s treated with love and talent, served up with a smile and a hot pot of tea. Teas from £12.95 per head. wellwalkte­aroom.co.uk CE KF

Woodkraft

Emboldened by the success of his Mancunian joint, WOOD, Masterchef 2015 winner Simon Wood opened Woodkraft in 2018. It’s an informal eatery where guests can enjoy a meal or shop at the small in-restaurant deli. Here, Simon’s passion for quality dining meets with Gloucester­shire’s wealth of local producers, resulting in a menu intent on flavour and accessibil­ity. Expect ham hock and Hereford hop cheddar sandwiches (£7), Old Spot sausage rolls (£5) and delectable fondant potato-esque hashbrowns (£1.50 each) that are truly worth the trip themselves. woodkraftc­heltenham.com CD CE KF

 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Shop for modern farmhouse cheeses at The Cheesework­s
Shop for modern farmhouse cheeses at The Cheesework­s
 ??  ?? The Coconut Tree brings Sri Lankan  lavour to Cheltenham
The Coconut Tree brings Sri Lankan lavour to Cheltenham
 ??  ?? Take tea in the kitschy Well Walk Tea Room
Take tea in the kitschy Well Walk Tea Room
 ??  ?? Try the toast at Baker & Graze
Try the toast at Baker & Graze
 ??  ?? Simon Wood heads up informal Woodkraft
Simon Wood heads up informal Woodkraft
 ??  ?? The fuyu spritz at Koj
The fuyu spritz at Koj
 ??  ??

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