Good Food

Duck & goose

Whether you’re a seasoned Christmas Day cook or it’s your first time, we’re here to help Best of both

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If you’re cooking for six and prefer to have a richer meat than turkey, then goose is a great option. If you’re cooking for two or three, then opt for duck. Duck and goose are both lean meats encased in a thick layer of golden fat just beneath the skin. The fat must be rendered to achieve crisp skin. Here’s how to do it:

COOKING TIPS

• Scoring the fat By scoring the fat all over with the point of a sharp knife, the fat will melt from under the skin more quickly, and any flavours you’ve rubbed over the bird will permeate the meat. You only want to score the skin though, not the flesh.

• Rack roast Roasting the meat on a trivet, or an ovenproof cooling rack above a roasting tray, allows the fat to drain away and heat to circulate around the underside of the bird, where a lot of the fat is.

• Basting Brushing the skin with oil or basting with its own hot fat as it cooks will help the fat that’s still under the skin to melt away more readily.

• If you have time and fancy a challenge, remove the legs and cook them separately in their own fat (confit) or braise them. This way you get leg meat that falls off the bone, and you can roast the crown for less time so the breast stays pink and juicy. You can find full recipes and guides on

TIME IT RIGHT

Unlike turkey or chicken, goose and duck are fine to eat pink – in fact the breast meat will be more succulent. Roast for 10 mins per kg at 240C/220C fan/gas 9, then reduce to 190C/170C fan/gas 5 and cook for 20 mins per kg for medium-rare, and 30 mins per kg for well done. Rest for at least 20 mins before carving.

HOW TO CARVE

1 When the meat is rested and cool enough to handle, use a sharp carving knife to cut downward between the thigh and body, then pull the thigh bone out of the socket and cut the whole leg away.

2 Cut the drumsticks away from the thighs at the joint. Carve slices off the breast, then serve the meat on a warm platter with your choice of sides and warm gravy, if you like.

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