Makan by Elizabeth Haigh

Editor Keith Kendrick enjoys unique fusion food from Singapore

When people greet each other in Singapore, instead of asking ‘How are you?’ they say, ‘Are you hungry? Shall we go for some food?’ This is because Singaporeans ‘live by their stomachs’, says Elizabeth Haigh in her vibrant new cookbook. It sounds like a place where Good Food readers would fit right in. She says, ‘In my family, we talk about food constantly. It’s almost like living in a chaotic restaurant, so it was a natural progression that I ended up becoming a chef.’ Which she did with some aplomb, competing in BBC One’s Masterchef, then going on to win a Michelin star at Pidgin in Hackney, London, at just 27 years old.

Makan is a celebration of the diversity of food from Elizabeth’s heritage, drawn from the recipes handed down through her family. She says, ‘Singapore is a mecca for all sorts of cuisines. The unique fusion food combines Chinese with influences from Malay, Indian, Thai, Indonesian, Dutch, Portuguese and, of course, English cuisine. It’s simply the definition of island cuisine.’

You’ll recognise the names of many of the dishes in Makan: beef rendang, sweet & sour pork, chicken satay. I opted for nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice), which I’ve made many times before – or, at least, thought I had. Elizabeth’s recipe is full of dried shrimp, which is pounded to a paste, and belachan – a fermented shrimp paste – both of which I had to buy from specialist shops. But the reward was rich, savoury and fiery. Dangerously delicious, like many of the recipes in this colourful and accessible book.