IBIZA
A S TYL IST’ S G UIDE
On my recent trip to Ibiza, all notion of its beach rave archetype was dissipated with several incredible stays that instead revealed a side to the island that was all sophistication, holistic approach and design sensibility. While the places where I stayed showcased different viewpoints of the island, they each embodied a more relaxed hippie-esque vibe rather than party destination, with beautiful experiences that spoke of uninhibited relaxation for the informed traveller and elevated stays with no sense of pretension or exclusivity – every guest was a VIP.
I had a week planned to explore what the island had to offer and after ying in from London we headed straight to the mountainous area and pastoral inlands that surround La Granja, a century-old farmhouse estate turned exemplary hotel with kitchen gardens, 10 acres of farmland, outdoor dining, communal spaces and pool.
The hill and forest surrounds aren’t typically what Ibiza conjures up, but throughout the stay I never felt the urge to leave and head beachside. Scents of sun-baked stone, pine, tomatoes, green leaves and ripe gs pervade the air, with rich, red clay soil underfoot and large pine and carob trees anking the main farmhouse. The building, made from local stone in caramel, creams and soft peach tones, anchors the estate and houses nine rooms that are scattered around somewhat casually. It’s all sophisticated rustic, with a great stone replace and lounge room at its heart where guests will nd a beautiful pairing of integrated stone furniture and soft furnishings of heavy linen, in a palette of muted hues, dusty creams, soft and rich greys.
The lounge spills into the outdoor kitchen and long communal dining area which really embodies the sense of cultivation at the core of La Granja; each day freshly picked produce from the kitchen gardens and farm is piled high and displayed cornucopian-style, waiting to be transformed by chef José Catrimán into delicious meals. They really are passionate about food and it’s truly a paddock-to-plate experience with a no-waste philosophy.
Dining and drinking takes place around the pool area with a backdrop of the fruiting prickly pear. As night falls, lights begin to twinkle around the garden and soft, groovy beats ll the air (I was constantly Shazaming – they not only have great taste in design but also tunes!). In the evening be sure to sample a mezcal cocktail mixed with freshly picked herbs and fruits under the bean tree of the outdoor bar.
A stone path with pine underfoot leads up to a treetop-level platform where I enjoyed a private yoga class with a soft cicada and birdsong soundtrack to waken the soul and start the day.
Breakfast starts from 8.30am with standout muesli and fresh juices. The rhythm of the stay is to order meals in advance as it is all made to order and you can choose a different spot to dine at each meal time, allowing you to absorb the surrounds and views. You get to know the excellent staff who it between servicing the farmhouse and tending the gardens and not once did I wish to be anywhere else as all was provided for.
After departing La Granja, we journeyed to the southern foreshore and stayed at a private villa designed by one of my favourite creative gurus, Faye Toogood. Unfortunately social media and photography were strictly banned at this stunning location, but it continued the elevated, relaxed stay until we reached our next destination, Los Enamorados.
Los Enamorados is tucked away on the quiet top end of the island providing yet another aspect of Ibiza with its own character – you won’t nd super yachts here but rather a protected, shallow cove providing a port for Zodiac vessels and old leisure shing boats. You can’t help but feel as if you’ve stumbled upon the ‘real’ Ibiza.
The owners’ personalities really shine through in the eclectic yet lowkey interiors. Former pro basketballer Pierre Traversier and former interiors magazine editor Rozemarijn de Witte have poured their jet-setting experience into creating a take-home eccentric establishment that oozes cool and casual. It takes some time to break down the colourful layers on arrival but it reveals the vision of a great curator: Danish antiques, modernist furniture, Moroccan rugs, French eamarket nds and South African designers. It’s the kind of eclectic mix you can see yourself living with.
The rst oor includes reception, restaurant, relaxing areas and an outstanding shop, with a crocheted change room, which contains limitededition Air Jordans, Greek sandals, vintage lighting, tableware, rugs, leather-wrapped eskies and coolers, Marrakshi Life clothing, hats, bags and high-end sunglasses. Everything is for sale and you get the feeling the owners love to replenish stock so don’t be afraid to ask.
The hotel houses nine rooms that run off one side of a long corridor covered in Moroccan rugs (Sou ane Zarib’s, for sure!) with numbers spraypainted on the doors. All the rooms have verandahs overlooking the cove and surrounding cliffs and caves. Moroccan tiles in all their beautiful hues line the walls, complemented by terracotta oors and layers of punchy but not in-your-face linen on the beds. It’s quirky, it’s personal and it works.
The communal spaces make you feel right at home with mixed seating choices from low to dining to bar height, with an array of Fermob chairs, handmade army tarp beanbags, African wooden stools and campaigninspired daybeds. On the patio, raf a-fringed 60s umbrellas dancing in the breeze keep the sun off as do the woven Moroccan shade covers.
Explore a little as there is a great collection of plants around the sides of the hotel and a lovely roadside garden. There are Zodiacs or more romantic wooden boats with shades to hire to visit the greater surrounding bay areas or, if your stay is too windy (as ours was), take the paddleboats or kayak around the sheltered cove which still offers plenty to investigate. You can also snorkel in the clear waters or take the walk that runs around the dramatic coastline to the northernmost tip and check out the Punta des Moscarter, Ibiza’s tallest lighthouse painted in black-and-white candy stripes.
From its 1960s-style patio to its ‘living in the kasbah’ vibe Los Enamorados is one of the coolest, most casual and chic-est hotels I have ever stayed. It’s done so well that you de nitely want to buy into this lifestyle. lagranjaibiza.