CHIC NOMAD
FROM THE FADED GLAMOUR OF LISBON TO THE SPLENDID ISOLATION OF THE SADO ESTUARY, PORTUGAL EXUDES AN AIR OF ROMANCE AND AN OLD-WORLD AMBIENCE.
Tour Portugal with Sibella Court.
Stay CABANAS NO RIO BY SILENT LIVING
The values of home, memory and simplicity that underline Silent Living’s approach to hospitality and their thoughtful collection of stays beckoned me to Portugal. I booked a night at their Cabanas no Rio, a secluded getaway about 1½ hours drive outside of Lisbon. The drive there isn’t of much note (although we did spot a flamboyance of flamingos on the way) but make sure to stop in at the nearby blue-and-white town of Comporta for some groceries and essentials.
From there, you continue on your journey to the cabanas in a location kept secret due to all the designophiles who flock to the magic of Silent Living places and spaces (naturally, directions are provided on booking). Before long, you turn off into sandy terrain scattered with cork and pine trees to meet the guide who will drive you in.
The two cabins are captivating in their simplicity. The low-pitched structures, clad inside and out in raw recycled timber with a directional flow from floor to ceiling, change shape as you walk around them, creating an optical illusion. All the while they meld with the surrounds of tidal wetlands, sandy dunes and water-drenched rice paddies rippling in the wind. One cabin serves as a lounge and day bar that converts to a hidden kitchen with sink and stovetop and the second includes a double bed, shower and toilet. The doors can be flung open wide to allow the elements to flow through the spaces, providing landscape views from multiple angles and transforming the shower from indoor to outdoor – very convenient when returning from water adventures on the Sado River or Comporta’s beaches.
It’s truly a space, too, that allows you to feel disconnected from the greater pull of day-to-day life, a beautiful zone to relax and recharge. Take the opportunity to paddle on the Sado river, ride a horse along the beach or explore the location on a bicycle provided. The area boasts one of the best places in Portugal for birdwatching (flamingos and storks) or, like me, you may simply wish to survey the landscape from the cabin and capture the soft grasses in watercolours.
SANTA CLARA 1728 BY SILENT LIVING
Silent Living’s Santa Clara 1728 property is a restored 18th-century mansion imbued with the same enchantment and romance of the old cultural quarter where it is located in Lisbon. It takes someone special to dream up a stay like this. Owner and creator João Rodrigues took the approach of opening up his home to travellers rather than it simply being a hotel (his family live on the top floors). This philosophy has influenced all aspects of Santa Clara’s design and ambience – when working with architect Manuel Aires Mateus of Studio Aires Mateus to revive the heritage building, they embraced its history yet found the perfect balance of old and new.
Its museum-esque lobby sparks a sense of intrigue before guests ascend the repaired stone staircase to their rooms. Our suite on the second floor comprised bed, bath and living rooms, all in a simple, thoroughly considerate yet not fussy, design where you can feel at home. High ceilings, limed timber floors and soft linen curtains fill the rooms with a soft and airy light, and while there is no air conditioner because of the heritage nature of the building, you can throw open the windows and balcony door for the welcome cross ventilation. The bathrooms continue to build on the serene nature of the space with basins and a bath carved from beautiful local stone in pinks, peaches and creams with Vola fittings – the toilet is tucked away in a Japanese-style bathhouse box. On one end the windows offer incredible views of the dome-topped baroque National Pantheon and Tagus River in the distance, and the other overlooks the hotel’s garden, where one may spot João thinking up new places and projects in between the long-haul flights he does as a pilot.
The amazingly helpful staff are willing and able to assist with excellent eating suggestions and great walking maps and guides for the city. You could really come here on a whim and let them lead the way. Before embarking on adventures around the city, a delicious breakfast is offered in the front room with eggs, muesli, tea, toast and honey on the comb. I coincided my stay with Feira da Ladra, the local fleamarket on every Tuesday and Saturday, which sets up just outside the hotel.
More apartment than hotel, this stay meets guests’ expectations and then raises the bar with exceptional service – offering all in an atmosphere of serenity, romance and honest simplicity found in a historical building that has no doubt inspired many interior design projects.
silentliving.pt
Eat PRADO MERCEARIA
Good-looking grocery shop frequented by Lisbon locals and visitors, selling the best of Portuguese staples and produce. Passionate staff can chat about mushrooms, berries and whatever is in season or luscious. pradomercearia.com
PRADO RESTAURANTE
Located in the heart of Lisbon’s Baixa district, down the hill from the Mercearia, this restaurant is a showcase for the quality and deliciousness of Portuguese food. pradorestaurante.com
GRAÇA DO VINHO
The sweetest store offering vinho and local fare. Forgo dinner and have the most delicious snacks washed down with beautiful wines in a repurposed chemist shop. Calçada da Graça 10, Lisbon
Explore MUSEU NACIONAL DO AZULEJO
View tile samples and murals through the ages by various artisans. The cafe of this Lisbon museum has a beautiful tiled wall. museudoazulejo.gov.pt
COMPORTA
With its blue-trimmed, whitewashed houses and thatched awnings, this coastal town feels like the Portuguese version of New York’s Montauk.
MINIMERCADO CARVALHAL
A must for the tarts alone, the cheese and huge tubs of olives, this store was the perfect pitstop to pick up supplies for our secluded stay at Cabanas no Rio. Avenida 18 de Dezembro 42, Carvalhal
SAL RESTAURANTE
Perched right on the beach, this open and airy restaurant in Comporta is a bit sandy underfoot but sports an undone, celebrity feel. Book to reserve a coveted outside table. restaurantesal.pt
Shop FEIRA DA LADRA
This Lisbon market is held every Tuesday and Saturday. My favourite pastime, in any city, is to comb the fleamarkets, going through pre-loved artefacts to find things that can be souvenired and treasured again. Campo de Santa Clara
LUVARIA ULISSES
One of the tiniest stores I visited, steeped in history and likely not much changed in nearly 100 years. You can find perfectly tailored leather gloves in this Lisbon shop. luvariaulisses.com
CHAPELARIA AZEVEDO RUA
A traditional hat shop in Lisbon, established in 1886, with all manner of hats, in fabric, straw or felt, including the most gorgeous ones for children. If you love old shops as much as I do, it’s worth a trip just for the fit-out. azevedorua.pt
HOSPITAL DE BONECAS
Just around the corner from the Azevedo Rua hat shop, you will find the oldest doll hospital in the world, a family-run operation founded in 1830 that offers repair services for vintage and modern dollies. hospitaldebonecas.com
A VIDA PORTUGUESA
I found two locations of this store in Lisbon. Both shops celebrate Portuguese crafts and trades, and stock rag rug mats, blankets, linen, toothpaste, ceramics, stationery, children’s toys, baskets, food and tableware. They are the best places to buy souvenirs or treasures that you can ship back home. avidaportuguesa.com