Better Homes and Gardens (Australia)
QUILTING BASICS TOOLS FOR HAND QUILTING
Here’s what you need to know to get started on your quilt project
FIRST THINGS FIRST
Read all instructions to make sure you understand the pa ern and have everything you need.
In keeping with tradition, these quilts have been designed using imperial measurements. To maintain accuracy, instructions are given in inches. Fabric quantities are in metric. You can buy imperial quilter’s rulers, or ones with both imperial and metric measurements.
All fabrics should be 100% co on. Pre-washing fabric is recommended but quilters oen differ on whether this is necessary.
Quantities and cu ing instructions for this project are based on 107cm of usable fabric width.
Check all measurements carefully. Included is a /in (6mm) seam allowance, unless otherwise stated.
Always cut fabrics in the order given. The arrow on a pa ern piece indicates which direction the grain should run. The lengthwise grain, parallel to the selvedges, has the least amount of stretch. Do not use selvedge of a woven fabric in a quilt. When washed, it may shrink more than the rest of the fabric.
Sew right sides together unless otherwise stated.
Press seams in directions indicated by arrows on diagrams. If no direction is specified, press seam towards darker fabric.
Frame or hoop You’ll get smaller, more even, stitches if you keep your quilt stretched as you stitch. A frame supports the quilt’s weight, ensures even tension and frees both your hands for stitching. Once set up, however, it cannot be disassembled until quilting is complete. Hoops are portable and less expensive than frames. Quilting hoops are deeper than embroidery hoops to accommodate the thickness of quilt layers.
Needles A ‘between’ or quilting needle is preferred for hand quilting because it has a short, strong sha and small eye. Common sizes are 8, 9, and 10 (the larger the number, the finer the needle). Size 8 is best for beginners.
Thimble This protective finger cover relieves pressure when pushing your needle through multiple layers.
Thread 100% co on is preferred; quilting thread is stronger than regular sewing thread.
FOR MACHINE QUILTING
Darning, free-motion quilting or hopper foot
This sewing machine a achment is used for free-motion quilting. You may find one in your machine’s accessory kit. If not, know the model and brand name of your machine when you go to purchase one.
Safety pins Use safety pins to hold quilt layers together during quilting.
Table or other large work surface level with your machine bed Your quilt will need the support.
Thread Look for either 100% co on or co onpolyester quilting thread. For quilting that blends into the background, use fine nylon or polyester monofilament thread.
Walking or even-feed foot This sewing machine a achment helps you keep long, straight quilting lines smooth and pucker-free.
FAT QUARTERS AND FAT EIGHTHS
A metric ‘fat quarter’ measures about 50 x 56cm (an imperial fat quarter is slightly smaller at 18 x 22 inches). A ‘fat eighth’ is 25 x 56cm (or 9 x 22 inches).
MAKING AND USING TEMPLATES
To make permanent, re-usable templates, purchase easy-to-cut template plastic, available at quilt shops and cra supply stores. Lay the plastic over a printed pa ern and trace, using a ruler and permanent marker to ensure straight lines, accurate corners and permanency. Include seam allowances by tracing the pa erns’ solid and dashed lines onto the template
plastic. Also mark the matching point of each corner on the seam line (indicated with dots on the printed paern). Cut out traced shapes on the outside lines. Using a drawing pin, make a hole in the template at each corner matching point. The hole must be large enough to accommodate the point of a pencil or marking pen.
Verify each template shape and size by placing it over its printed paern. Templates are required to be accurate because errors, however small, will compound many times as you assemble a quilt.
Place a template right side down on the wrong side of fabric and trace, using a pencil, white dressmaker’s pencil or a special erasable fabric marker that makes a thin, accurate line. Do not use a ballpoint or ink pen as the lines from these may bleed when washed.
Mark the corner matching points through the holes in the template; they should be right on the seam lines. Reposition the template with no space between it and the previous tracing (Diagram 1, below), trace again, and repeat.
While we’ve used traditional shades of blue, you can match your quilt colour to your decor
Using a rotary cuer and ruler, cut out your pieces, cuing precisely along the drawn lines.
COMPLETING QUILT
Cut and piece backing fabric to measure at least 4in (10cm) bigger on all sides than the quilt top. Press seams open.
With wrong sides together, layer quilt top and backing fabric with baing in between, and baste. Quilt as desired. Trim baing and backing fabric even with quilt top edges.
Join binding strips with diagonal (45) seams to make one continuous binding strip (Step 1, right). Trim excess fabric, leaving /in seam allowances. Press seams open. Fold one end of the binding strip under 1in (2.5cm) (Step 2, right) and press. With wrong side inside, fold strip in half lengthwise and press (Step 3, right).
Starting in centre of one edge, place binding strip against right side of quilt top, aligning binding strip raw edges with quilt top raw edge (Step 4, right). Begin sewing binding in place 2in (5cm) from folded end. Stop sewing when you are /in (or a distance equal to seam allowance you’re using) from the corner, backstitch, and clip threads. Remove quilt from under the sewing machine presser foot.
Fold binding strip up, creating a diagonal fold, and finger-press (Step 5, right). Holding diagonal fold in place with your finger, bring binding strip down in line with next edge of quilt top, making a horizontal fold that aligns with the quilt edge (Step 6, right).
Start sewing again at top of horizontal fold, stitching through all layers. Sew around quilt, turning each corner in same manner. When you return to starting point, encase binding strip raw edge inside the folded end (Step 7, right). Finish sewing to the starting point (Step 8, right).
Turn binding over each edge to the back. Handstitch binding to backing fabric, making sure to cover all machine stitching.
To make mitred corners on the back, hand-stitch up to a corner and fold a mitre in the binding. Take a stitch or two in the fold to secure it. Stitch the binding in place up to the next corner. Finish each of your corners in the same manner.