Business Traveller (Asia-Pacific)
Taiwan’s little-known northern county of Yilan is a hotbed of cultural preservation, artistic innovation and traditional pastimes
Escape Taiwan’s crowded metropolitan areas and indulge in a peaceful city brimming with tradition, art and history. Valerian Ho is enchanted by the northeast county of Yilan
Clad in just a kimono-style indigo dressing gown and flip-flops, I wandered down Jiaoxi Road Fifth Avenue on a warm August evening. While my peculiar attire may have attracted strange looks elsewhere, the northern part of Yilan is renowned for its plethora of urban hot springs found in public parks, bathhouses and hotels, so no one seemed to bat an eyelid.
I could almost have been in a Japanese onsen town, although there were some distinct differences. While noticeably quieter than Taiwan’s coastal cities of Taipei, Taichung, Tainan and Kaohsiung, there is still an urban feel to the region, with moderately busy roads flanked by low-rise buildings, neon signs and people milling about.
Eventually I arrived at Tangweigou Park, a small, public hot spring off the main street. I joined a couple of elderly locals who were soaking their bare feet in the warm pool. The hot water eased away the ache in my weary limbs, while the hum of chitchat and occasional bursts of laughter created a convivial atmosphere, adding to the enjoyment of a typical cultural experience in Yilan.
Driven by a newfound passion for the area’s hot spring culture, I returned to the hotel to continue my love affair. Opened in June, the Wellspring by Silks hotel is the latest offering from the international Regent Hotels groups. The new luxury property boasts an infinity hot spring swimming pool on its 12thfloor rooftop, providing night-time views of pretty twinkling lights from the surrounding Yilan Plains, as well as a panoramic vista of Guishan Island (pictured) in the daytime. I can think of few better ways to spend an evening than relaxing in a bubbling hot spring with a glass of iced tea (or stronger tipple from the bar) and gazing up at the starry night sky. Every evening at 10pm, a large screen is also set up to give guests a unique outdoor cinema experience.
If you prefer to soak in solitude, you are still in good hands. Every room at the Wellspring by Silks hotel offers a private hot spring on a sheltered balcony. Large enough for two people, the luxurious marble bath is a glorious sanctuary in which to relax, with ambient lighting and modern facilities.
COLOURFUL PAST AND FUTURE
Refreshed and recharged, it was time to explore the captivating art, culture and history of Yilan. My first stop was to delve into the region’s indigo dyeing industry – a localised trade that rose to prominence in the 18th century. Surrounded by mountains and bordering the Pacific Ocean, Yilan is a natural shelter, providing the perfect climate and soil conditions for the Assam indigo plant to flourish. Local artisans became skilled in extracting the deep-blue colour from the leaves through a special fermentation process, and applying the natural dye to a range of cloths, paper and other materials, which became highly coveted items. Even today, the rich indigo colour is associated with this small northern county. Visitors can learn all about the process through a series of hands-on workshops at Shijia Farm. Within two hours, I had created my own indigo-dyed cloth to take home. (Note: English levels are limited, a translator may be advisable).
22 Linwei Road, Jiaoxi Township, Yilan County; tel +886 09 3520 2952.
At the other end of the spectrum is a modern explosion of colour that will appeal to the whole family. Famous Taiwanese illustrator Jimmy Liao, the author of 29 picture books including Turn Left, Turn Right and
Sound of Colours, has created a fantastical, cartoon-zoo display at Yilan Train Station that has become a must-see for visitors. From the giant giraffe perched on the entrance, to the enormous“Starry Night Train” hanging from the ceiling, complete with a boy and girl passenger, this surreal wonderland features many of Jimmy’s beloved characters, and definitely put a smile on my face.
HERITAGE TRAIL
From the train station, I decided to explore the city’s historic streets. Yilan’s city centre is blessed with a number of charming heritage buildings dating back to the Japanese occupation from 1985 to 1945. Nestled behind a screen of large trees on Beiheng Road lies the Yilan Museum of Literature, a peaceful structure dating back to 1926, when it served as the residence of the Japanese school’s principal. Following a renovation in 2002, the building is now tasked with preserving the region’s cultural assets and revitalising literary development. There is a free exhibition of local writers as well as a teahouse offering snacks and refreshments. The sensitively restored Japanese garden is also a pleasant spot to explore, with more information about local authors and their work.
19 South Road County Lane 2, Old Town, Yilan; open Tue–Sun 9am–5pm; tel +886 3932 4349; literature.ilccb.gov.tw (Chinese only); free admission.
Just across Taishan Road I found the site of the oldest wine factory
in Taiwan, built in 1909. The twostorey, Japanese-style facility has since been turned into the Yilan Distillery Chia Chi Lan Wine Museum, giving visitors the chance to learn about the region’s premium rice wine and, more specifically, the production of red hong lu jiu wines. The first-floor exhibition included artefacts and re-creations of how the spirit used to be stored in brown jars, while on the ground floor a selection of wine products wait to be tested, from wine jelly to wine eggs.
3 Old Town West Road, Yilan; open 8am–5pm every day; tel +886 3935 5526.
CULINARY TREATS
Many of the heritage properties have also been given a new lease of life as restaurants and cafés. Outside the Shennong entrance of the Luna Plaza mall stands one of Taiwan’s oldest examples of Japanese-style architecture. Built in 1986, the one-storey “Blue House” began life as a prison before being reborn as an artistic performance theatre and now housing the Western-style Le Grand Bleu restaurant. However, throughout the various renovations, the building’s attractive structure has remained unchanged. Built without a single nail, the wooden beams are staggered to support each other in a prime example of complex Japanese joinery. To protect this historic feat of carpentry, the kitchen is located outside the house, where chefs whip up a wide range of Western cuisine, including risotto with chicken and porcini (NT$270/US$6) and sliced smoked ham with apple croissant sandwich (NT$240/US$8). The grilled lamb chops with pistachios were also particularly tasty (NT$499/US$16 per set).
117 Shennong Road Second Avenue, Yilan, Yilan County; open Mon-Fri 11.30am–9.30pm, Sat and Sun 10am–10.30pm; tel: +886 3936 8282; silksplace-yilan.com.tw/bluehouse
For more Oriental flavours, next to the literature museum stands the former house of a senior Japanese government official, built in 1906 and turned into the Japanese restaurant Kyukoku in 2006. The original architecture is mimicked on the inside by Japan’s signature clean lines and zen-like design style. The menu offers a selection of Japanese classics including tempura, basil scallops and burdock beef roll.
8 South Road County Lane 1, Old Town, Yilan; open Tue–Sun 11.30am–2pm; tel +886 3935 8855; kyukoku.com.tw (Chinese only).
Another highlight of my gastronomic exploration of Yilan was the award-winning roast duck served at Silks Place Hotel’s Red Lantern restaurant. A plump, 3.5kg Yilan cherry duck is roasted in a Cantonese-style oven until the meat is succulent and the skin is irresistibly crispy. Executive chef Jeffery Lin created five dishes, from a traditional pancake with green onion to a delicious fragrant soup and shredded duck served in a salad. The sushi is a must-try dish: the juiciest part of the duck is fused with a light cheese and melts in your mouth – unforgettable. The five-course Cherry Duck feast costs NT$2,888 (US$92) for four to six people. To guarantee this speciality I recommend booking well in advance.
silksplace-yilan.com.tw