Duddell’s; Indian Accent; Rochelle Canteen at the ICA; Bombay Bustle

Duddell’s is the creation of restaurateur Yenn Wong. Her Hong Kong original of the same name holds two Michelin stars, and is smart but pricey – much like this London Bridge branch inside the beautifully refurbished St Thomas Church.

There’s a full menu with dishes such as lobster noodle and plenty of rich ingredients, including truffles and wagyu beef; but we visited for the full dim sum selection at lunch. The Duddell’s fish and prawn dumpling is a variation on har gau (the classic shrimp dumpling) steamed in wrappers that were deftly made and translucent, the filling correctly resistant to the bite. Crispy char siu bun was a highlight – the roast pork filling flavourpacked and intensely savoury, while the poached chicken dumpling had an impeccable spicy stock. Slithery yet firm, these dim sum exemplified the mastery of texture that Chinese chefs have.