Rochelle Canteen at the ICA

This new branch of an iconic Shoreditch restaurant has taken root in the events space, gallery and cinema that is the Institute of Contemporary Arts on The Mall. The ICA has attracted generations of bohemians for its avant-garde events and still does. Life imitates art with the canteen’s blank-canvas look; the menu is equally unembellished.

Rabbit and bacon pie comprised a vast pastry lid stretched over a family-sized dish, browned and pitted from the baking; the meat within was well-flavoured and hearty.

The ox cheek with pickled walnut and celeriac mash wasn’t Instagram-worthy, but the rich flavours were clear, bright and thrilling. Chunks of slow-cooked beef were ethereally light, falling apart at the touch of a fork.

The puddings were equally simple. A slice of quince and almond tart had a moist texture, ideal comfort food for a cold rainy evening.