Bombay Bustle

The team behind the Michelin-starred Jamavar restaurant in Mayfair opened this less expensive branch in November. It’s no less elegant, but has a slightly different focus – the rich pickings of Mumbai’s diverse culinary scene.

Misal pao is a breakfast dish of toasted white bread rolls – introduced by the Portuguese – filled with a spicy bean stew. Bombay Bustle’s take on it is exemplary; the bread rolls were pert, and little details such as the diced onion and lime slice garnish were utterly pukka.

Bambaiya ragda are fried potato rissoles in a chaat of chutney, spices and chopped onions, with a topping of crisp gram-flour noodles. This version had the requisite pairing of sour and sweet notes that are typical of Gujarati snack food.

Mumbai’s muslims excel at meat and rice dishes. The dum nalli biryani here is authentically slow-cooked in a tightly sealed vessel; once the lid is lifted, the aromatic spices waft out and long grains of rice and tender lamb are revealed.