Boiled Mutton in Ningxia
THE Yellow River carves its way out of the Helan Mountains, giving birth to the alluvial Ningxia Plain, a typical oasis in the Gobi Desert. For thousands of years, this amazing place has been reputed as a fertilized region on the remote border. Nearly all Chinese gourmands believe that the Ningxia Plain produces the best mutton.
It is said that stewing the mutton without flovouring is the best way to cook it. The seasoning substance may damage the cell membranes, causing the mutton to lose moisture and elasticity, and spoiling its texture. After kept simmering for nearly two hours, it becomes softened and saturated with water. The mutton is neither greasy nor gamey, but plump and delicious. Salt is then added before the dish is served. In this way, the seasoning can add flavor without affecting the texture of the mutton.
The Chinese character 鲜 xian (meaning fresh and delicious, comprising鱼 yu (fish) and 羊 yang (sheep)), is the highest praise the Chinese accord to the taste of a dish. The cooking of mutton is a tradition that can be found in most areas in China. But differences in environment and climate have resulted in various flavors of mutton dishes. In northern China, it is cooked in the simplest way, which not only brings out its delicious taste, but also suggests the locals’ confidence in the quality of the ingredient.
Yanchi County of Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, located at the heartland of the Tengger Desert with a relatively high latitude and allyear-round dry climate, is abundant in “salt, fur, leather, and glycyrrhiza uralensis (a special medicinal herb).” The well-known Tan lamb that feeds on herbs and mineral-rich water taste extremely tender.
On the Ningxia Plain, there are more than 100 types of highquality herbage that can feed lambs, such as liquorice root and rehmannia glutinosa. Among them, over 40 are used in Chinese herbal medicine. The dry climate and the mineral-rich soil make herbs abundant in protein, and the water rich in mineral substance including carbonate and sulfate gives the Tan lambs a fine taste and rich nutritional value.
To protect the environment, large-scale herding has been banned. In Ningxia’s Wuzhong City, silage is lamb’s principal feed. It is made by crushing and fermenting corn stalks and alfalfa so that it can be as close to natural fodder as possible. To sustain the flavor of mutton, people have racked their brains and attempted to manually reproduce a feeding environment closest to nature.
Boiled mutton eaten with hands is a local delicacy in Ningxia and can be found by visitors at almost every roadside restaurant. The dish uses mutton from the lamb ribs, the best part of the entire lamb. The first step is to chop the mutton into lumps and then put them into the pot. Boil the mutton and skim any fat or scum from the surface of the soup. Mince an onion and some chili peppers. Put the meat on the plate, then garnish it with one slice of onion, and sprinkle fine salt on. Place it in a steamer till the mutton is thoroughly cooked. Drain the water in the plate. Pour the mutton broth into another pot and boil it. Then add the minced onion, pepper powder, and cayenne pepper. Finally, serve the boiled lamb with a ladleful of broth. Usually, diners eat the mutton with hands, or use a knife to cut it off. In this way, the dish has been dubbed “hand-grabbed mutton.” C