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Valencia replacement
Q I have a 1985 Mk3 Escort with a rust-free body but a tired 1117cc Valencia engine. I can’t find a good used replacement engine, but plenty of the Mk4 Escort 1297cc versions. Is this engine longer or will it mate to the existing four-speed ‘box, and using the original driveshafts? Steve Tames Email
A “The 1297cc engine from the Mk4 Escorts is called a HCS engine and was the second generation to the original Valencia engines,” says Mike Johnson. “Ford had further developed the head and combustion chambers to improve emissions to appease the new European legislation at the time and these engine also had the benefit of electronic ignition. So if you get an engine, make sure it comes with the ESC wiring to run the coil pack.”
“This engine will bolt up to your current gearbox and you will be able to retain your existing driveshafts. They are very economical and reliable engines and have the potential to be tuned a little with a tubular manifold, a range of uprated cams and with the coil pack electronic ignition you could run it all on MegaJolt (kits are available fromTrigger Wheels) if you really want to play with the advance curve.”
Axle location
Q I have a Capri and I really want to do away with the rear leaf springs. I’m informed that coil-overs with anti-tramp bars will do the trick. I can get the anti-tramp bars, but I’m not sure on the coil-overs. Do you know what this will cost me to get, and where from?
The car isn’t going to be at standard height. I’m still waiting for new bushes and I haven’t decided on ride height but it will be at least an inch lower. I really don’t want the leaf springs; I’ve found them to be too much trouble, but I’m a bit fussy too — I’d like to be able to kick the tail out every now and then. Gavin French Email
A Really, switching to coil-overs would be a waste of time and you’ll spend a fortune on bits. The only thing you’ll achieve is to stop some of the sideways movement of the rear axle. The simple way to do it is to use single leaf springs from a 2.8i, and decent dampers — like adjustable GAZ or Avo ones — but don’t overdo it on the adjustment, they only need to be set quite low.
Set them too stiff and you’ll get no compliance and it will lift one of the rear wheels. All the weight is at the front of the Capri so you can set the front to be as stiff as you can tolerate. Put poly bushes throughout the suspension as planned.
Sideways axle location is a real problem, but you can sort it with a CapriSport or Capri Club triangulation kit. It’s a bolt-on job — it takes 10 minutes. The kit also helps to reduce axle wind up. A well-sorted single leaf spring set-up is a good, low maintenance set-up. The four-link option means hacking up the floor, possibly losing the back seat and ultimately having to move the tank.
Crossflow into Pop
Q I’ve just picked up a 1700 Crossflow, which I want to fit in my 100E Pop, which has just come off the road for a full rebuild. Can you tell me
what’s involved in fitting it? I want it all to look as factory as possible. Also, what’s the best gearbox (and easiest to fit) to use? Keith Jones Email
A The Crossflow won’t go in without fouling the original bulkhead, so ideally you need to track down a 107E bulkhead, or if you’re confident working with sheet metal, make your own – Old Ford Auto Services (OFAS) can supply with plans and a template to do this.
You’ll also need to source the 107E’s engine crossmember and 105E engine mounts.
It’s likely the sump on the Crossflow will be an Escort (rear bowl) one. This needs to be swapped for a Mk2 Cortina front bowl sump. You’ll also need the Cortina’s oil pick-up pipe and front cover.
As far as the gearbox is concerned we’d use 2000 ratio three-rail gears fitted into an Anglia 1200 casing (BGH Geartech can do this for you). To fit this you’ll need to make your own tunnel (again, OFAS can supply plans), and fabricate your own gearbox crossmember.
Finally, you haven’t mentioned it, but the 100E’s back axle is a weak affair — ideally use a 105E one. It’s not that much work to get it to fit.