KNOW THIS: Rustproofing
Discover the best DIY techniques for painting and rustproofing the bodywork and other parts on your classic Ford.
Discover the best DIY techniques for painting and rustproofing the bodywork and other parts on your classic Ford.
Most classic Fords are notorious for corrosion, so many owners have become skilled in the art of rustproofing, or at the very least, dread the sight of tinworm.
Preparation is in many cases more important than application when it comes to rustproofing, whether it’s an entire bodyshell or a small component. Flaky rust and unknown contaminants from previous resprays are some of the problems waiting to threaten fresh paint and ensure it will fall off or react within a few days or weeks.
There may well be products that promise to cover and protect metalwork with one single coat, but there’s no escaping the fact that if you remove corrosion and key the surface properly, there’s a greater chance of success. And choosing the right paint is also essential. For small jobs, such as painting a suspension component or a mounting bracket, most of us choose to apply paint from an aerosol can or a tin (applied with a brush), which don’t require mixing with any other chemicals. These types of paint are usually either cellulose or acrylic-based, both of which offer fast drying times without the need to bake them in a warm environment.
If a more hard-wearing finish is required when painting a component, such as on a suspension arm that may become peppered with road dirt and stones, then there are several options. For the ultimate protection, powder-coating is perhaps the best solution, but requires specialist equipment. DIY alternatives include applying a synthetic resinor enamel-based paint such as Hammerite, POR-15 or Woco Supercote enamel gloss paint. These types of paint are often fast drying and provide a durable gloss finish.
Prep versus longevity
Deciding on how much time is needed to prepare and paint a surface or component is perhaps best decided by what it will be exposed to and how long it needs to remain intact. Take a dashboard rail inside a car for instance, especially one that will be hidden by the dashboard. It won’t be in view and won’t be exposed to road dirt or any other means of damaging the surface. Consequently, it may be possible to key the surface with abrasive paper and paint over it with a suitable gloss paint.
Where a better standard of finish is required, because the component is on show, or where it needs to be protected from road dirt and be weather resistant, the preparation
is more important. Keying the surface with abrasive paper may be sufficient, but if corrosion is present, it may help to use something more abrasive, such as an angle grinder with a flap wheel to remove the old paintwork and cut back to the bare metal. If surface corrosion still exists, apply a rust inhibitor such as Hammerite Kurust, Granville Rust Cure or Woco rust bonding primer, which helps to turn any remaining iron oxide into iron tannate and reduce the risk of any further corrosion. The product information on Woco rust bonding primer helps to explain this further, stating, “Once the product is applied, the special chemicals (chelating agents) contained within the formulation react with the rust cells and form an inert coating that is tightly bonded with the substrate.”
For bare steel, a dedicated metal primer should help to keep the corrosion away. Woco Supercote ZP for instance, contains zinc, which acts as a cold galvanising coating and prevents oxidisation of steel by sacrificing zinc metal contained within the coating. If the coating is damaged, the zinc will sacrifice itself, stopping rust spreading from the affected area.
Once a primer has been applied and left to dry, the next stage is to apply the paint. As mentioned, aerosols and brushing are the most popular DIY methods. Both require good ventilation and it’s always wise to wear a breathing mask. Applying several thin coats is often recommended to ensure good adhesion and to avoid the risk of the paint running. Even if you want to achieve a thick coating of paint, several thin coats will be more effective and longer lasting than slapping on lots of paint in one go.
In some cases, lacquer can be applied to provide a gloss finish and additional protection. This is usually in the form of a clear coat and is available in an aerosol can.
Problems
One of the most annoying problems concerning painting a component or a part of a classic Ford is when the paint reacts. There are several possible causes for this. Chemicals, such as silicone-based cleaners and lubricants may be present on the surface. These can often be removed with a good-quality panel wipe before applying any paint - a clean surface is essential prior to painting it.
If the paint still reacts, even after meticulously cleaning it, there are two choices. The most time-consuming is to strip off all the old paint to a bare metal surface. Paint strippers can often speed up this process. The second is to apply some form of sealer to prevent the old paint reacting with the new. The surface may only need keying with P400-600 wet-and-dry paper before applying the sealer.
Rustproofing
The aim of painting an object on a classic Ford is often to prevent corrosion, but where the finish is either not important or needs to withstand the abuse of road dirt and water, there are a number of hard-wearing solutions that fall into the category of rustproofing. This level of work can be time-consuming, and preparation is definitely more involved than application.
Whether you are rustproofing a large part of a car, or just one area, such as inside a wheelarch, it always helps to remove as many components as possible that could either get in the way or be accidentally painted over. Next, arm yourself with cleaning tools ranging from scrapers and screwdrivers to wire brushes. An angle grinder with an assortment of wire wheels, cups, brushes and abrasive flap wheels can save hours of cleaning, but always wear ear plugs, a full-face mask and a breathing mask because flying debris and dust will get everywhere.
It’s unlikely that all traces of rust can be removed from a car, no matter how small an area or object you are rustproofing, so applying one of the aforementioned rust
inhibitors or primers is essential before any other protection products are used. Make sure this fully dries before the next stage, which may involve more paint, such as a durable stonechip or hard-wearing enamel, followed by a rubberised underseal (useful for exposed floors, chassis sections and inside wheelarches).
Underseal isn’t the prettiest-looking finish, but its rubberised surface can withstand the abuse of stones and other debris. There are some alternatives, such as Witham’s Prolan heavy grade universal general purpose lubricant, which has a clear finish and can be applied with a brush. It’s popular in the agricultural industry where it’s applied to farm machinery every couple of years to protect it from corrosion. For cars, it can be applied in potentially wet areas such as the underside, or even inside a spare wheel well where water may gather. It’s also suitable for moving components that can corrode, such as spring pans.
Wax-based rustproofing products can also be used in these areas and some offer a clear finish to avoid spoiling the looks of a painted surface, such as the latest XCP Rust Blocker Clear Coat. However, some of these products can easily be washed off and are only suitable for spraying inside hidden areas, such as chassis legs, so check you have the right product.
There are numerous advantages and disadvantages of using the various rustproofing products mentioned, so deciding which one to choose isn’t always straightforward. Underseal for instance, hardens after several years and can thus trap moisture and cause corrosion. Reapplication can sometimes help to keep it supple (it should be reapplied every two years), but it may eventually need to be scraped off.
Most wax-based rustproofing products are flammable, so if you intend to conduct welding repairs, avoid applying this until afterwards - the aforementioned XCP Rust Blocker promises to be non-flammable.
Hot components, such as the engine and exhaust system may cause wax-based rustproofing solutions to become runny and to drain off, leaving areas exposed and susceptible to corrosion. Even a hot, sunny day can see wax dripping out of the drain channels of a door.
Rustproofing may seem like a neverending job, or perhaps part of the course of owning a Ford, but with the correct preparation, tools and products it can seem like less of a losing battle.
“UNDERSEAL ISN’T PRETTY BUT ITS RUBBERISED SURFACE WITHSTANDS ROAD DEBRIS”