CRANK­SHAFT SEAL

Classics Monthly - - Jaguar X-Type -

1 As ever, project spon­sor DMG was able to pro­vide the new seal from stock. The Ford-de­rived V6 en­gine was used across a wide range of X-Type, S-Type and also the newer XE and XJ mod­els so it’s a com­mon part. 2 For­tu­nately, the leaky seal on our en­gine was the ‘front’ end of the crank­shaft – in other words, the one which doesn’t re­quire gear­box re­moval. On the trans­verse- en­gined X-Type that puts it on the right-hand side of the car where it’s ac­cessed by re­mov­ing the plas­tic arch liner. 3 The en­gine is a tight fit but there’s just enough room to work in­side the in­ner arch. The of­fend­ing seal lives be­hind the crank­shaft pul­ley , so the ten­sioner (at top) will need to be re­leased in or­der to get the belt off. 4 The ten­sioner is re­leased by sim­ply turn­ing it with a span­ner on the cen­tral bolt. It’s hard work but will move enough to al­low the belt to be slipped off. 5 With the belt re­moved, the next step is to re­move the cen­tre bolt of the crank­shaft pul­ley. If you’re lucky it will pull off by hand but af­ter 17 years and 123,000 miles ours re­ally didn’t want to move. 6 This means us­ing a puller and since we were do­ing the job in a proper work­shop, they had the right tool to slide the pul­ley off straight with­out dis­tort­ing it. Re­place the bolt loosely be­fore us­ing the puller or you’ll dam­age the thread in the nose of the crank­shaft.

7 Un­like the usual ba­sic DIY pullers, this pro ver­sion fea­tures grooves on the legs which match the grooves on the pul­ley it­self. 8 With only mod­er­ate force, the pul­ley slid off its shaft and you can see here how it uses a key to lo­cate on the crank­shaft. 9 Re­mov­ing the old seal is a sim­ple mat­ter of hook­ing it out with a screw­driver and it was im­me­di­ately ob­vi­ous why ours wasn’t seal­ing prop­erly as the ma­te­rial on the rear face had hard­ened no­tice­ably. 10 The new seal is sim­ply lo­cated in the re­cess by hand and then a suit­able boss is used to push it home. 11 It will need some force to push it in but the key is to be gen­tle and make sure it goes in straight. As work­shop boss Ash­ley pointed out, the temp­ta­tion is to use big­ger ham­mer but that’s how you mess it up. Just take your time with it un­til it’s fully seated. 12 Here’s the new seal al­most in place. Re­mem­ber it will sit al­most but not per­fectly flush with the cast­ing.

13 Since the oil leak from the old crank seal had soaked the drive belt, DMG had sup­plied a new Dayco belt. With the limited space to work, it’s ac­tu­ally harder to re­place the belt than the crank­shaft seal and the first step was to re­move the ten­sioner en­tirely to re­move the old belt and thread the new one into place. 14 On the X-Type, the belt is pretty long: it drives the power steer­ing, air con­di­tion­ing and al­ter­na­tor as well as an idler roller and the ten­sioner. 15 With the help of a di­a­gram we were able to get the belt round the var­i­ous pul­leys in the right or­der and then the ten­sioner and crank pul­ley could be re­fit­ted. 16 This closeup of the ten­sioner shows just how much muck the leaky seal had al­lowed to get sprayed around by the pul­ley. 17 Run­ning the en­gine af­ter­wards, the seal stayed dry and the belt didn’t throw it­self off so we were done... ex­cept that dip­ping the en­gine oil re­vealed it to be well past its best, so we treated the en­gine to 5.8 litres of fresh 5W30 oil and a new fil­ter while the car was on the lift.

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