Re­mov­ing a brake caliper

Classics Monthly - - Workshop -

1

Try to slacken the caliper’s brake flexi-hose con­nec­tion. If the end of the flexi-hose is wound into the caliper, you will not be able to re­move it yet. If a banjo bolt is fit­ted, the bolt can be re­moved, but it’s worth­while wait­ing for now to re­duce the risk of brake fluid loss.

2

On most multi-pis­ton calipers, it’s worth­while re­mov­ing the brake pads, which will in turn make it eas­ier to re­move the caliper. The brake pads may be held in po­si­tion with se­cur­ing pins, which can be drifted out then pulled out with pli­ers.

3

Modern sin­gle-pis­ton calipers re­quire the caliper to be re­moved, which is sep­a­rate to the car­rier where the brake pads sit. There are of­ten a cou­ple of slider bolts that se­cure the caliper in po­si­tion They gen­er­ally use an Allen key or hexag­o­nal head. These should not be too tightly fit­ted.

4

Multi-pis­ton brake calipers usu­ally have a cou­ple of caliper bolts to undo, which se­cure the en­tire caliper to the up­right. These are usu­ally very tight and are fit­ted as tightly as the caliper car­rier on a more modern clas­sic.

5

Re­mov­ing a rear brake caliper is of­ten a lit­tle more in­volved be­cause the hand­brake ca­ble usu­ally needs to be de­tached. It might be se­cured with a cle­vis or split pin. If this is dif­fi­cult to ex­tract, it could be eas­ier to drill it out.

6

You may need to lever the caliper off at first when at­tempt­ing to re­move it. Once re­leased, de­tach the brake flexi-hose, but clamp the pipe with a suit­able brake clamp or flat-jawed vice grips to re­duce brake fluid loss.

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