Removing a brake caliper

1

Try to slacken the caliper’s brake flexi-hose connection. If the end of the flexi-hose is wound into the caliper, you will not be able to remove it yet. If a banjo bolt is fitted, the bolt can be removed, but it’s worthwhile waiting for now to reduce the risk of brake fluid loss.

2

On most multi-piston calipers, it’s worthwhile removing the brake pads, which will in turn make it easier to remove the caliper. The brake pads may be held in position with securing pins, which can be drifted out then pulled out with pliers.

3

Modern single-piston calipers require the caliper to be removed, which is separate to the carrier where the brake pads sit. There are often a couple of slider bolts that secure the caliper in position They generally use an Allen key or hexagonal head. These should not be too tightly fitted.

4

Multi-piston brake calipers usually have a couple of caliper bolts to undo, which secure the entire caliper to the upright. These are usually very tight and are fitted as tightly as the caliper carrier on a more modern classic.

5

Removing a rear brake caliper is often a little more involved because the handbrake cable usually needs to be detached. It might be secured with a clevis or split pin. If this is difficult to extract, it could be easier to drill it out.

6

You may need to lever the caliper off at first when attempting to remove it. Once released, detach the brake flexi-hose, but clamp the pipe with a suitable brake clamp or flat-jawed vice grips to reduce brake fluid loss.