Re­fit­ting a caliper

Classics Monthly - - Workshop -


If the caliper needs to be wound onto the brake flexi-hose (if the hose isn’t at­tached with a banjo bolt), then make sure the hose isn’t twisted when the caliper is fit­ted. You may need to slacken the hose’s con­nec­tion at the op­po­site end. Al­ways re­new any wash­ers used with the brake flexi-hose.


The mount­ing bolts for the caliper car­rier (sin­gle-pis­ton calipers) or caliper (mul­ti­p­is­ton) need to be tight­ened to a spe­cific torque set­ting. This is usu­ally quite high (60-80Nm), but check your work­shop man­ual. Slider bolts are usu­ally not so tight (around 30Nm).


When re­fit­ting a rear caliper, the hand­brake link­age may need to be re­con­nected. Re­new any cle­vis pins, horse­shoe clips and other fit­tings if they are cor­roded and in dan­ger of break­ing.


Once all of the brake calipers have been re­fit­ted, top up the brake fluid in the reser­voir, then bleed the brakes. The bleed­ing se­quence usu­ally starts the fur­thest away from the brake master cylin­der.


Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.