Project Toledo
The final instalment of our Toledo project sees the last of the bodywork issues tackled.
We tackle the last of our little Triumph’s bodywork issues.
A s we explained last month, our Toledo is essentially a pretty sound example but a life living outside while being used as effectively a company pool car has meant that although it’s been well serviced and maintained mechanically, the bodywork has started to get shabby.
When we started to look into the required repairs, we discovered a situation familiar to owners of countless ‘affordable’ classic cars: with the tatty areas spread all around the car, professional bodyshops would generally advise a full repaint which together with the labour involved in the rust repairs would add up to much more than the car’s value.
There’s always a way out though and last month we followed one-man band Alan Denne tackling each issue in turn, fabricating repair patches with hand tools as required. Although it takes time to replicate the skill of someone with a lifetime of experience in body repairs and welding, the results on the Toledo show just how it’s impossible to achieve a very satisfactory result given enough enthusiasm and patience.
Last month saw us mainly working on the rear wheelarches before turning our attention to the front nearside wheelarch and also sorting out the crusty-looking fuel tank.
We also tackled the strange hole which had appeared on the inside of the offside front wheelarch behind the bonnet, but with that done we still needed to look at the outside of the front wings. On the Toledo they’re welded on, so the useful shortcut of slapping on a pair of cheap aftermarket wings wasn’t an option for us.
Given the work involved in removing and refitting the weld-on wings, it was of course easiest to do the repairs with the panels in situ. With that done we also needed to paint our repairs in four different locations but again, a full professional repaint wasn’t cost-effective.
The work you’ve seen on our Toledo was performed by Alan Denne using only basic hand tools rather than costly professional kit and shows what can be achieved by a DIYer. Alan works from Glaston in Rutland and can be contacted on 07890 890639.
1 Turning to the unsightly rust bubbles on the exterior panel, this was what we were faced with. Initial suspicions were that it had been caused by an overlap of metal during previous repairs to the front of the Toledo.
2 To see the extent of the damage, Alan first ground the paint and metal away using a sanding disc in a grinder. This creates fewer sparks than a grinding disc, but nearby glass still needs to be protected with a blanket.
3 The initial hole revealed in this way was only about 2in across, but the rust had inevitably spread further than this. Alan had to cut out plenty more metal with tin snips before he was satisfied that all the rust had been removed.
4 We now discovered that the previous repairs were further forward, and that this rust had been caused by the thick underseal moving as the panel heated up in the sun and allowing condensation to be trapped against the metal.
5 The edges of the hole were still too rough from the cutting, so Alan used a hammer and dolly to straighten them up. This was then followed by the sanding disc to clean up any sharp edges and give straight lines for the patch to fill.
6 After measuring the hole, that patch was cut over-size to start with, and the initial crease knocked into it while held in a vice. Alan then built on that crease to put the curve of the panel into the previously flat sides.
7 Professional body repairers pay serious money for their bodywork hammers, but a cheap hammer and dolly set for £25 will be OK to get you started on patch repairs. Be sure to use the hammer with the closest profile match to the panel.
8 Alan made it all look so easy, shaping the patch by eye to match the panel’s contours. Don’t be disheartened if it takes you longer, just work in little steps and constantly check on progress against the panel as you go.
9 With the finished patch placed on the panel, Alan scribed around the hole from below and cut the patch slightly inside this line. That made it a near perfect fit which could be held in place by these intergrips – from £18 for five.
10 As before, the next step was to tack weld the patch. Metal moves as it heats and cools, so after each burst of welding Alan knocked the edges of the repair flush, using hammer and dolly to tweak crease and curve into alignment.
11 The tack welds were then stitched together into a continuous bead, which in turn was ground back to a flush finish. Alan then ran his hand over the repair, feeling for any high spots that may need dressing down before the filler is applied.
12 It used to be a definite no-no to fill over old paint because it would be impossible to feather back without picking up. But with modern fillers, if you sand the surrounding area with coarse 40- grit paper, it will feather in.
13 Alan cleaned the car with panel wipe to remove contaminants such as wax, polish and traffic film – remove the panel wipe straight away with a clean cloth, otherwise it will evaporate and the residue will react with the paint.
14 It was now time to mask off the areas that were not going to be painted. Alan was painting the rear wings up to this swage line. Note how he put the tape on and then folded back the bottom half to give a soft edge for the paint.
15 With the masking paper cut roughly to size, the edge of this could then be stuck to the upturned edge of masking tape. This soft edge allows a smoother transition between the old and new paint.
16 Paint spray can get everywhere, so don’t stint on the masking paper. Cellulose is not quite as bad because it dries in the air before it falls back onto the car, but two pack will stick to anything and everything.
17 Having already gone over the paint with panel wipe, Alan then went over the immediate area of the repair with 400- grit paper, before removing any dust with a tack rag that is specially designed for the job (around £2.99 for a pack of 10). 18 You will need a measuring stick to mix the paint and thinners (if using cellulose) or paint and hardener (two pack) in the correct proportions. Never use two-pack without the correct breathing apparatus and knowledge. 19 Alan applied three coats of primer to the repaired areas, without sanding between them. He then gave a very light sanding before applying the top coats, using a 20 micron pad that is the equivalent of 1500- grit paper.