Bodywork on a tight budget

When it comes to car bodywork, the question of filler is a hot topic, though one often not discussed in great detail in the context of restoration. We often come across car body filler during restorations, and I’m sure many of those reading this will have their own horror stories. Finding structural members such as sills or chassis rails repaired with filler and chicken wire over gaping rust holes is obviously a terrible bodge, and not something anyone should consider doing or condone. However, body filler does have a place. Used sensibly to smooth dents and distortion on top of rust-free metal, it’s great at making old body panels look good.

As I’ve discussed at length previously, the back of the 1970 Morris Van wasn’t the best to start with, having been repaired many times before. Although we’ve done a good job of straightening it out, some filler is still required. None of the filler is ridiculously thick, but even a shallow 2mm deep dent about the size of a postage stamp can need a skim of filler feathered out that covers a surprisingly large area.

Using filler is quite a knack, and most of it ends up sanded off so it often requires several skims to get the contour correct. A long sanding board with 40 grit production paper works quickly, but leaves deep scratches which need sanding out with higher grit papers. It would be nice to spend time and money on professional panel beating, or trying to source a van back in better condition, but these are few and far between (and expensive too) and that really falls outside the size and budget of the restoration which we are undertaking.

I’ve used my time recently to watch a number of videos online about how to undertake bodywork, and it’s interesting to see conflicting advice. For example, there exists a debate over whether to use epoxy primer on bare metal before filler – some restorers swear by this, others advise putting filler only on top of bare metal. Having seen how filler can absorb water and let rust rampage below, I have opted to

put a base layer of epoxy primer over the vehicle. My thinking is that if the filler is applied before the epoxy paint completely cures, it adheres very well indeed. And while epoxy primer may be very corrosion resistant, it dries to a tough finish and it is hard to rub down.

One thing everyone agrees on is the need to hand-finish bodywork prep, and that is the stage we have reached. It’s been time consuming, but the basic shape looks quite good and it won’t be long before we can start applying some paint ready for the top coats.

To make a change from the constant sanding, we have also sorted out the front bumper. Like everything else on the van, it was dented and battered after a long, hard life. We’re retaining the original economy Morris Van bumper blade, which was painted and not chromed, and for some reason is shorter than the end of the valance. Careful use of heat enabled us to get the blade straight again, although the original valance and number plates were beyond hope. Luckily a reasonably tidy valance was in dad’s loft, and once the spare bolt holes had been welded up, it fitted nicely against the wings and front panel.

One of the things I’ve enjoyed about this restoration has been the vivid description of all of the knocks and prangs the van has received throughout its life – every dent tells a story! The latest example of this was the rear doors, one of the few outstanding areas of bodywork left. They didn’t fit very well, and dad let slip that at some stage he had backed into a skip. Naturally this had not improved the fit! We cracked on and got the dents out, rust was cut out and replaced by new steel, followed by a skim of filler. Again, it probably would have been easier to replace the doors with some better ones, but needs must and all that.

With the doors repaired, they were trial fitted once again. These have solid iron hinges with replaceable balls inside. The fit of the doors wasn’t great, and we hoped changing these balls would make them fit properly. Although this improved the fitment, it hasn’t solved all of the issues Some filing of the holes in the hinges improved the fit further until it was passable, but unfortunately there is no other way of adjusting them.

Bodywork, especially on a vehicle that has been well used, is never an enjoyable undertaking – it’s dusty and always lasts far longer than you ever think or hope. This has been one of the most difficult restorations in terms of bodywork we have ever done. Although it would have been much easier to have brushed it with satin red oxide like it has been for most of its time in our family’s ownership, it has been nice to finally give the vehicle the love and attention it deserves. We have worked really hard on the upper side, and if it turns out as hoped, I would like to get it sign-written with the name of grandad’s newsagent’s.

Front bumper valance and blade was lined up for fitting to the front of the car after straightening.

The rear doors on the van back were re-hung and tested for fit – evidently some adjustment was going to be required.

Will Armston-Sheret Contributor Will has a collection of Morris Minors. This column follows the maintenance and modification of them for daily use, as well as the long-term restoration of a 1950 Lowlight Tourer from a desert scrapyard in America and a 1970 Morris Van which has been in his family for nearly 40 years.

Rust had eaten through the rear doors in some places.

The rust was cut out, revealing more rot to be replaced

ABOVE: Replacement balls were fitted to the hinges in an attempt to improve the fit of the rear doors. CIRCLED: The dismantled hinge shows the limited adjustment available.

Finally, the front bumper valance and the front panel were in primer, awaiting further bodywork but on the home straight.