OUT ON THE TOWN
ANNABELLE HICKSON EXPLORES HER LOCAL TOWN OF TENTERFIELD, A HISTORIC PLACE WITH CONNECTIONS TO ICONIC AUSTRALIANS PETER ALLEN AND BANJO PATERSON.
OLD-WORLD ROSES climb the verandah posts of many of Tenterfield’s sweet little red-brick and weatherboard cottages. The town clock chimes from its tower every hour. You’ll see pet sheep and goats, and sometimes a horse, in the backyards of this historic town. There are no traffic lights, none of the omnipresent fast-food chains, no shopping malls. It’s as unassuming as it is beautiful. This agrarian town near the Nsw-queensland border may be quieter than its neighbour Stanthorpe, 56 kilometres north in Queensland; its historic buildings may sing nostalgically of its vibrant past, with connections to Banjo Paterson, Breaker Morant and Peter Allen, but it’s not resting on its laurels. There is a whiff of change in the air at Tenterfield. And there has never been a better time to visit. As you drive into Tenterfield from the north, you’ll pass a small chestnut orchard and a park blazing red if it’s autumn, or bright white with blossoms in spring. Off to the left is Tenterfield Station’s huge water tank, high on stilts, pinpointing the heart of what was once the 40,468-hectare unfenced sheep station that gave the town its name. If you approach the town from the south, you’ll pass through grazing country studded with granite outcrops and cherry orchards. And if you’ve come from the east, through the winding road up over the Great Dividing Range, an avenue of oaks will lead you into the centre of town. No matter what road you take, you’ll get a clear sense of Tenterfield’s beauty and its history. While some small rural towns are shrinking, Tenterfield is going strong, with some beautifully renovated bed and breakfasts, a fancy pub and some great shops. Houses are selling quickly, according to local agent Libby Sharpe, new businesses are opening (a florist and a wine bar are just two newcomers), and all sorts of Tenterfield-related hashtags are popping up on social media. While sheep and cattle farming are the main industries here, Tenterfield’s altitude of about 850 metres makes it perfect for growing apples, nuts, stone fruit and grapes, as well as garlic. It’s also high enough to grow peonies. A farmers market recently started up in the Anglican church three Saturdays a month, showcasing all this produce and, as local bobcat driver Seb Puglisi says, “If you can’t find it in Tenterfield, it’s not worth buying.” I have fallen in love with this place, having come here once a week for the last three years for my ‘town day’ — when I cram in supermarket shopping with getting a haircut, picking up farm machinery parts and checking in with legendary local chiropractor Scott Parker. I’ve made a motley crew of friends of all ages: Dave the builder, Mandy the flower grower, Matt the shopkeeper. They are all passionate about the town they call home, although I almost feel bad singling anyone out because the whole place has a welcoming atmosphere. I love the fact that there are truly four seasons here. I love the gardens, the old buildings. And, in particular, I love it that Tenterfield is surrounded on all sides by national parks. It sounds hard to believe, but this town of about 7000 people, three-and-a-half hours south-west of Brisbane, is surrounded by no less than 10 national parks, full of granite boulders, waterfalls, swimming holes, walking tracks and camping grounds. The countryside is pristine and almost empty of people, which, to me at least, is the height of luxury. Basket Swamp, Bald Rock and Boonoo Boonoo Falls are the most well-known spots to visit, and for good reason. You can climb to the top of Bald Rock, the largest granite monolith in the southern hemisphere, and enjoy spectacular views. I like to take the long way up, with its gentle incline, and then the steep way down. It’s less than a three-hour round trip and is suitable for children. Basket Swamp Falls is a lovely series of >
rock pools leading into a waterfall, while Boonoo Boonoo National Park — where Banjo Paterson proposed to Alice Walker of Tenterfield Station — also has a waterfall, swimming holes and walking tracks. Lesser-known but still wonderful is the Torrington State Conservation Area, recommended to me by local plantswoman Sarah Caldwell of Mole Station Native Nursery. There you can take the easy 2.6-kilometre loop walking track to Mystery Face. “There are lots of beautiful rocks to climb, and rare and beautiful plants,” says Sarah. “For me, Tenterfield is all about the beautiful countryside, including the national parks and the farmland. The combination of the geology, flora, fauna and arresting scenery will keep me entertained for the rest of my life.” For those who are less into the great outdoors, there are lots of ways to spend a day in town. In summer, mine would start with a coffee on the deck at the back of Willow Tree Café or, if it’s winter, beside the open fire at Corner Café. Spice and Cream has a large verandah and garden, making it a terrific place for a weekend breakfast if you have young children. After breakfast, pop into the Tenterfield Visitor Information Centre and pick up the map of the town’s historic walk, which only takes about an hour and leads you to places including the School of Arts, where Sir Henry Parkes made his famous 1889 Tenterfield Speech in which he started the movement for the federation of the Australian colonies. If you are interested in historic buildings, or have small people with you who are obsessed with trains (it seems there’s always one), visit the railway station. Trains stopped running to Tenterfield — the last NSW station on the Great Northern Line — nearly 30 years ago, but the building is now a museum and a fine example of Gothic Victorian architecture. Another wonderful building to visit while you’re in town is the Tenterfield Station homestead. Custodian Beryl Dean will, by appointment, take you on a tour of the 13-room house where Banjo Paterson was married. By now you’ll be ready to hit the shops. Mandy Reid created White Cottage — a little oasis on the outskirts of town selling lovely antiques and plants. She also has a flower farm on her property, where you can pick your own flowers, filling wicker baskets she provides at the gate. Then visit Matt at The Potting Shed for garden furniture and tools. Stroll down the main street into Ruben and Flax for new homewares and linen, and then into The Corner Life and Style Store. Finish up by admiring old estate jewellery at Margot Rees Antiques. For lunch I’d drive north for 30 minutes to the Barrelroom at Ballandean Estate (bookings recommended) and stock up on the Fiano white wine from the cellar door, before popping back to base for a relaxing afternoon. Preferably I’d be staying at either the Old Council Chambers or Winton Luxury Bed and Breakfast, where I can have a long soak in the bath before heading out to dinner at The Commercial Boutique Hotel. You could also grab a bite to eat or just a drink at the new wine and espresso bar, Our Place, and see a movie afterwards in the lovely old theatre in the School of Arts across the road. It might be worthwhile having a comb through the local tip before bidding the town farewell. Last year a collection of relics thought to belong to Breaker Morant was found in a bag at the tip, including an Australian flag that was strewn across Morant’s grave after he was executed during the Boer War. Also in the collection was a bullet-damaged penny on a string, engraved with the name ‘Edwin Henry Morant’. It’s believed to have been worn by Morant when he was executed. Tenterfield is a special mix of new and old. It is peaceful, charming and surrounded by spectacular scenery. I hope to see you there one day soon, with Tenterfield Saddler blaring from your speakers as you drive in.