Lunch with Matt Moran: visit his family farm
CHEF AND FARMER MATT MORAN SHARES RECIPES FOR THE FOOD HE LIKES TO COOK AT HIS FAMILY PROPERTY.
I LIVE IN SYDNEY, close to the coast, but I continue the connections to the land that began in my childhood. (My early years were spent on a dairy farm, but we moved to the city’s western suburbs when I was nine.) Today, Dad and I have an 80-hectare property, about three hours west of Sydney, just beyond the Blue Mountains. We have dairy cows, fat lambs and pigs, and have just put in our first truffles. I’m proud to be able to say I’m a fourth-generation farmer.
The way I cook when I’m at home in Sydney is different from how and what I cook when I’m at the farm. Time is on my side when I’m at the farm — it’s about slowing down and really enjoying the process of cooking. It’s cold-weather country (there’s snow most years) and that influences the way I cook there, too. Low and slow is the order of the day, whether it’s a rich braise or a hearty soup. Breakfasts are long and lazy, lunches stretch into dinners and friends often drop by, so many of these dishes need to feed a crowd.
Of course, there’s plenty of lamb and it’s pretty hard to go past a good roast chook when the weather gets chilly. These are even better when paired with root vegetables pulled from the garden and roasted in duck fat.
When I’m at the farm, my love of baking comes out in full force. Anzac bickies and my nan’s date scones often get a look in, and I might make a classic self-saucing pudding to round off a meal. Generosity lies at the heart of this food, along with a lack of fuss. There’s nothing fancy here, but there’s a sense of indulgence that only a leisurely pace can bring. It’s the kind of cooking that feeds the soul and I reckon just about all Aussies can relate to this warming country fare.
For more information about Matt Moran, his restaurants and the family farm, visit mattmoran.com.au
SILVERBEET, LEEK & GRUYERE TART
Serves 4–6
Silverbeet is often overlooked, especially these days when kale is the new(ish) leafy green vegetable on the block. I love silverbeet paired with loads of butter, leek and garlic, which form the basis of the tart filling here. This is one of my favourite dishes for a leisurely lunch at the farm and if there are leftovers, they’re just as good for breakfast.
1½ cups strong flour, such as bread flour or baker’s flour
1 teaspoon dried yeast
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1 teaspoon fine salt
3 eggs, at room temperature
90g butter, cubed, softened
SILVERBEET FILLING
40g butter, diced
1 leek, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled, finely chopped
400g silverbeet, half of stalks thinly sliced, leaves chopped into bite-sized pieces
100ml dry white wine
1 egg
1 egg yolk
150g crème fraîche
100g coarsely grated gruyere cheese
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
Combine flour, yeast, sugar and salt in bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add eggs and knead until combined. Gradually add butter, a little at a time, kneading continuously for 4–5 minutes or until dough is glossy and butter is completely incorporated. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm, draught-free place for 2–2½ hours or until dough has doubled in size.
Meanwhile, to make silverbeet filling, melt butter in a large saucepan over a low heat. Cook leek, garlic and silverbeet stalks, stirring occasionally, for 4–5 minutes or until tender. Add wine and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 2–3 minutes or until wine has almost evaporated. Stir in silverbeet leaves and cook for 2–3 minutes or until just wilted. Set aside to cool completely.
Whisk egg, egg yolk and crème fraîche in a large bowl until smooth. Add silverbeet mixture, gruyere and thyme. Season with salt and pepper, and stir until well combined.
Preheat oven to 190°C. Punch down centre of dough with your fist. Roll out dough on a lightly floured work surface into a 35cm-diameter disc and use to line a 25cm round pie tin or tart pan, allowing it to overhang side. Spread silverbeet mixture over tart base, then fold in edge, pleating as you go. Bake for 40–45 minutes or until golden brown and cooked through. Stand for 10 minutes. Serve hot.
DATE SCONES
Makes 8–10
There’s nothing that says rural Australia more than a scone — they make me think of small town shows and the Country Women’s Association. Be sure to have a light touch when you’re bringing your dough together — if you overwork it, the scones will be heavy and definitely not show-worthy! These date-filled beauties are as close as I can get to the ones my nan, Valda, used to make. Serve them warm.
2⅓ cups self-raising flour
2 tablespoons caster sugar
½ teaspoon mixed spice
pinch of salt
60g cold unsalted butter, cut into small dice
175ml milk
1 egg
1 orange, rind finely grated
1 cup dried dates, pitted, cut into quarters
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten, for brushing
extra caster sugar, for dusting
jam and clotted cream, to serve
Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
Sift flour, sugar, mixed spice and salt together into a bowl. Using your fingertips, rub butter into flour mixture until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Make a well in centre of flour mixture.
Place milk, egg and orange rind in a separate bowl and lightly whisk until combined. Pour into well in flour mixture. Add dates and use a round-bladed knife in a cutting motion to mix until a soft dough forms. Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface until 5cm thick. Use a 7cm round cutter to cut out scones. Re-roll scraps once and repeat. Place scones on prepared tray. Brush tops of scones with egg yolk and dust with extra caster sugar.
Bake for 10–12 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm with jam and clotted cream. >
POT-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH RICE & LENTILS
Serves 4–6 (See photograph, page 69)
The beauty of this dish is the succulence of the chicken. Because it’s roasted in a sealed pot with the stock, the chicken remains incredibly juicy. As a bonus, the rice and lentils beneath the chicken get to soak up all the chicken-y juice. Roasted baby carrots would be an excellent side dish.
1.8kg free-range or organic chicken
1 lemon, rind finely grated, quartered
1 garlic bulb, halved
1 cinnamon stick
4 thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons olive oil
20g butter, diced
1 onion, peeled, thinly sliced
extra 1 garlic clove, peeled, finely chopped
1 teaspoon coarsely crushed coriander seeds
1 teaspoon coarsely crushed cumin seeds
1 cup long-grain rice, such as basmati
¼ cup small green lentils or brown lentils
200ml dry white wine
2 cups chicken stock
coarsely chopped mint and flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
Greek-style natural yoghurt and lemon wedges, to serve
Preheat oven to 200°C. Pat chicken dry inside and out with paper towel. Stuff chicken cavity with lemon quarters, garlic bulb, cinnamon and thyme. Tuck wings under chicken and tie legs together with kitchen string.
Heat half of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Cook chicken, turning occasionally, for 5–6 minutes or until browned on all sides. Remove from heat.
Meanwhile, heat butter and remaining oil in a large flameproof casserole pan over a medium-high heat until butter foams. Cook onion and extra garlic, stirring occasionally, for 3–4 minutes or until just tender. Add lemon rind, coriander seeds and cumin seeds, and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add rice and lentils, and stir to coat in oil mixture. Add wine and simmer for 2–3 minutes or until reduced by half. Add stock and bring to boil. Place chicken, breast-side up, in pan. Cover with a lid and bake for 35–40 minutes or until rice and lentils are tender, and juices run clear when a skewer is inserted into chicken thigh. Stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Season to taste. Top chicken with mint and parsley, and serve with yoghurt and lemon wedges.
LIME DELICIOUS PUDDING
Serves 6
This magical pudding is one that takes me straight back to my childhood. I was always amazed at how such a simple mixture turned into the delicate tangy custard on the bottom and the fluffy sponge mixture on top. It would be a crime not to serve this with vanilla ice-cream or crème fraîche.
60g unsalted butter, softened
250g caster sugar
2 limes, rind finely grated, juiced
3 eggs, separated
350ml milk
¼ cup self-raising flour
pinch of salt
icing sugar, to dust
crème fraîche or vanilla ice-cream, to serve
finely grated lime rind, to serve
Preheat oven to 180°C. Lightly grease a 5-cup capacity baking dish.
Using an electric mixer, beat butter, caster sugar and half of lime rind for 3–4 minutes or until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat until well combined, then stir in milk, flour and lime juice.
Using an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whisk eggwhites and a pinch of salt in a clean, dry bowl for 3–4 minutes or until stiff peaks form. Gently fold eggwhite into lime mixture, then pour into prepared dish.
Place baking dish in a large roasting pan. Add enough boiling water to roasting pan to reach halfway up sides of baking dish. Bake for 35–40 minutes or until golden brown and spongy on top. Remove from oven.
Dust with icing sugar. Top with crème fraîche or ice-cream, and sprinkle with remaining lime rind. Serve hot.