HOLIDAY HUNTER: CORNWALL, UK
TAKE A LOOK AT THE CHARMING VILLAGES OF ENGLAND’S SOUTH-WEST COAST THROUGH THE EYES OF EMMA KATE CODRINGTON.
Designer Emma Kate Codrington takes us on a tour of the seaside county of Cornwall and shares her tips for where to eat and stay while in the area.
AUSTRALIAN GRAPHIC DESIGNER Emma Kate Codrington leads an enviable life — when she’s not running her stationery business Emma Kate Co, she’s travelling around the world and writing about her adventures. You will often find this Melbourne resident putting calligraphy brush to paper, immersed in the design of a new collection, designing brand campaigns, running lettering or social media workshops and writing or photographing, not to mention travelling as much as she can. Here, Emma Kate takes us on a trip to Cornwall — a county in south-west England that’s known for the spectacular scenery of its rugged coastline, beautiful beaches and, somewhat surprisingly, good surfing. During her stay, Emma Kate discovered some charming villages, a thriving food scene and a secret garden. Visit emmakateco.com or follow @emmakateco on Instagram.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT TRAVELLING? It’s beautiful to be inspired and moved by the world. There’s a German word, fernweh, that can’t be precisely translated into English. Loosely, it means ‘far sickness’ — or feeling homesick for a place you’ve never been, and I feel it perpetually! Travelling gives me a constant feeling of ‘rootlessness’ — a sense of transience. TELL US ABOUT YOUR TRIP TO CORNWALL. It was my first time there — and now I wonder why it took me so long to visit! I lived in London a few years ago, and always chose to fly to other European destinations for weekends away and holidays. I never took advantage of the amazing locations that were accessible by car and just a few hours away. The Cornwall Peninsula is home to hundreds of beaches and harbour villages — the kind we read about in classic English novels. Cornwall also has the mildest climate in the UK — it enjoys more than 1541 hours of sunshine a year — and its winters are among the warmest in the country. The pace definitely moves more slowly there than in the hustle of London. It’s a beautiful feeling to slow down a notch, or three.
WHERE WERE YOU BASED? I first stayed in the storybook village of Fowey on Cornwall’s south coast. Hanging off the west side of the Fowey estuary, the large deep water harbour attracts sailing enthusiasts and the entire town feels settled under a blanket of quiet and cosy calm. Wander the cobblestoned streets of Fowey and you’ll stumble across independent gift stores and eateries that beckon you to indulge in breakfast, brunch, lunch, cream tea, dinner and dessert. There are plenty of park benches where you can stop and take photos or watch the world go by. Fowey is connected to the South West Coast Path. The path takes you out of Fowey, along the headland, and upon St Catherine’s Castle. Cornwall has almost 300 kilometres of rugged stunning coastline that tumbles into the Atlantic Ocean. What could be better than that? Next was Newquay. Perched on Cornwall’s Atlantic Cliffs, it’s a sand-crusted, surf-lover’s paradise, blessed with lots of sunshine and a completely laid-back atmosphere — definitely England’s equivalent of our beloved Byron Bay. Newquay is the epicentre of UK surfing culture and one of Britain’s most-loved seaside towns. >
WHERE DID YOU STAY? In Fowey, I checked in to the Old Quay House Hotel (theoldquayhouse.com), which was a blissful refuge to rest my head, like the old seamen of Fowey once did. I was lucky enough to be upgraded to the best room in the hotel, which overlooks the harbour. This place is sure to gently nudge away any and all remaining stresses you forgot to leave behind in the city. Just magical! In Newquay, I stayed at the iconic Headland Hotel (headlandhotel.co.uk). Perched on a cliff top, this luxury spa hotel offers beautifully decorated suites and private cottages with incredible views of the ocean and Fistral Bay. If you’re game, you can book stand-up paddleboarding or a surfing lesson with Surf Sanctuary through the hotel.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST THING YOU DID IN CORNWALL? I arrived in Fowey just on dusk. After checking in to the hotel, I took myself for a walk along the harbour and up the hilly streets to find a good lookout above the town. The streets were deserted and it felt like I had the whole town to myself!
DID YOU HAVE ANY OTHER ADVENTURES? I loved pedalling along The Camel Trail (cornwall.gov. uk/cameltrail). Built on a disused railway line, the path provides access to the Cornish countryside and connects the towns of Wenfordbridge, Bodmin, Wadebridge and Padstow. I hired a bike and cycled from Wadebridge to Padstow — it was an easy ride.
WHAT WAS THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR TRIP? It has to be the Cornish pasties, of course, with the spectacular scenery and landscapes coming in a very close second. The whole vibe of Cornwall is just idyllic. The Lost Gardens of Heligan in St Austell was another highlight. As Europe’s largest garden restoration, it is a real-life secret garden. After World War I, the gardens of the Tremayne family estate became overgrown, and lay hidden under a carpet of brambles and ivy for decades. It was only the discovery of a door in the ruins that led to the revelation and restoration of this once great garden.
ANYWHERE ELSE WE SHOULD GO? I would have loved to explore further west. If I had another day, I would have made my way down to Penzance.
CAN YOU SHARE SOME OF YOUR TRIED-AND-TESTED TRAVEL TIPS? Do your research — find out where to buy the best coffee, then go and make friends with the barista. They usually have great recommendations for things to do off the beaten track. Always check in for flights as early as possible — I never want to miss the window seat. And make travel playlists — the songs you listen to while you’re on adventures will conjure up powerful memories for the rest of your life.
EMMA KATE’S FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK AND VISIT IN CORNWALL
• The Seafood Restaurant is owned by Rick Stein and eating there was my absolute culinary highlight. The English celebrity chef, restaurateur and television presenter needs no introduction, and the village of Padstow has become synonymous with Rick Stein himself. The famous Seafood Restaurant has established an international reputation for its imaginative cooking of the very freshest fish and shellfish. I dined there on my final night in Cornwall and it was just delicious! Riverside, Padstow. rickstein.com • Padstow Bookseller is fitting as the next place to visit, as it was opened by Rick Stein’s wife, Sarah, and Cornish bookseller and publisher Ron Johns. They launched the store in 2016 and occasionally host book signings and author events there. 1 Broad Street, Padstow. padstowbookseller.co.uk • Q restaurant at the Old Quay House is the place for fresh scallops, delicious wine, friendly service and water views. Plus, I just had to walk up a staircase to my bed afterwards — I loved dining here on my first night in Cornwall. 28 Fore Street, Fowey. theoldquayhouse.com • Samphire Restaurant in The Headland Hotel is a contemporary restaurant named after the succulent (a member of the parsley family) that grows on the rocky cliffs surrounding the hotel. Local produce and seasonal menus are the focus here. Fistral Beach, Newquay. headlandhotel.co.uk • The Drang Gallery is a must-visit for any art-lover as it’s home to an inspiring collection of modern and contemporary pieces from emerging and established artists. Since it opened in 2011, the gallery has gained a reputation for showcasing bold and cutting-edge works that are available for sale. 8–9 Drang, Padstow. thedranggallery.com • Heligan Kitchen and Bakery is an eatery in the Heligan Gardens estate. It’s a beautiful spot to enjoy a traditional Cornish cream tea or vegetables picked from the garden. While other establishments talk in ‘food miles’, the Heligan Kitchen and Bakery prides itself on ‘food yards’ — there are 157 yards (less than 150 metres) from the soil to the plate. I picked up a Cornish pastie to take with me as I continued down the road — it was incredible! The Lost Gardens of Heligan, Pentewan, St Austell. heligan.com • Chef Paul Ainsworth is making his mark on the Cornish food scene, with two eateries in Padstow: one, a Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant called Paul Ainsworth at No. 6. The other is Rojano’s in the Square, a family friendly Italian restaurant. paul-ainsworth.co.uk