THE HOLIDAY HUNTER: DESTINATION PUGLIA

PHOTOGRAPHER NICOLA SEVITT TRAVELLED TO THE SOUTHERN ‘HEEL’ OF ITALY TO INDULGE IN ITS FOOD, FAIRYTALE ARCHITECTURE AND COASTAL CULTURE.

Tips for an idyllic road trip in the south of Italy through the eyes of an Australian photographer taking in the best places to eat and stay.

exploring the streets. I feel inspired when travelling, and on return, I always feel like I’ve learnt so much.”

This month, she takes us to Puglia at the south-eastern tip of Italy:

WHY PUGLIA?

Puglia has this rustic, genuine charm. I gravitate towards places that are a little less explored and unknown and, although Puglia now seems to be on everyone’s list, it feels as though tourism hasn’t yet fully hit this special part of the world. Also, who can go past pasta, fairytale towns, beautiful swimming holes and an abundance of fresh seafood?

WHAT WAS THE FIRST THING YOU DID?

We picked up a Fiat at Bari Airport and began to make our way down to the beautiful white-washed town of Ostuni. Initially, we were focusing on driving on the opposite side of the road and trying to work out the speed limit, or lack thereof. But we took a turn off the main road and were suddenly surrounded by rows and rows of olive groves and driving in front of us was a white vintage Fiat — it was just so ‘Italian’. As we approached Ostuni, a sea of white buildings up on a hill began to appear. Finally, we arrived at our accommodation, Masseria Moroseta, set among five hectares of olive fields. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the infamous resident English bulldogs, Beppe and Pablo.

HOW DID YOU SPEND YOUR TIME?

We spent our days eating delicious pasta and fresh seafood, reading, exploring the nearby towns and seeking out the most beautiful coastal swimming holes.

WHAT WERE YOUR FAVOURITE MOMENTS?

Some of my favourite memories are from the stunning town of Lecce and exploring its history and baroque architecture. It’s so interesting and refreshing to see the craftsmanship of architecture that was designed centuries and centuries ago. I also really enjoyed exploring the rugged coastline. In Australia we are spoilt for choice with stunning white sandy beaches, but I actually love the look and feel of the rocky beaches and inlets where you can dive straight into the clear blue Mediterranean sea.

DID YOU FIND ANY HIDDEN GEMS YOU WEREN’T EXPECTING?

On our last day of the trip, we discovered this gorgeous little beach called Porto Ghiacciolo in Monopoli, which was situated right next to an old castle. We spent the afternoon playing cards and eating fresh peaches until the sun went down. It was pretty special. In Lecce we discovered the best bakery (Caffé L’incontro) on the outskirts of town that made the most delectable pasticciotto — an Italian custard-filled pastry that Lecce is known for. I still dream about them!

ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR DAY TRIPS?

If you’re a ceramics lover, definitely take the time to go to Grottaglie. Only a 30-minute drive from Ostuni, this quaint little town has shop after shop full of traditional Apulian ceramicware. For a piece of paradise, head to Grotta della Poesia, an easy day trip from Lecce. This picture-perfect natural pool is ideal for a dip and a seaside picnic.

MUST-DO ACTIVITY?

I would definitely recommend doing a road trip in Puglia, I think it’s the best and only way to see the region. And obviously hire a Fiat! Puglia is only quite small, and having a car gives you the freedom to hop from town to town and explore whenever you feel like it.

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL?

The spaghetti alle vongole from Alba Chiara or Il Principe del Mare Ristoro. My fiance and I still talk about it! It had the perfect ratio of garlic, olive oil and pasta and tasted like the ocean. Puglia is also well known for orecchiette pasta, which look like little ears. We ate delicious orecchiette at a restaurant in Ostuni situated inside a cave (Osteria Del Tempo Perso). Something I wish we got around to doing was taking a cooking class — they’re offered in most of towns. >

DID PUGLIA LIVE UP TO YOUR EXPECTATIONS?

I had painted a picture in my mind of what it would be like and it turned out to be more beautiful than I’d imagined. This part of Italy runs at a different pace to the north. The days are slow and long (in the best way) and the people are relaxed and incredibly friendly. It’s rustic, rugged and not perfect — it’s just real.

ANY TRAVEL TIPS?

Before I leave, I jot down the names of restaurants, towns, beaches and markets I like the sound of and plot them on a Google map. I also grab tips from friends or family who have visited the destination. But I’ve found that it’s always best to mix this with a bit of spontaneity. The thing I love about travelling is experiencing and seeing something new every day.

WHAT WILL YOU REMEMBER MOST?

Driving through olive groves and watching the sun disappear over the horizon. Eating copious amounts of pasta and not feeling one bit guilty. Getting lost in cobbled streets. Eating pizza and drinking too many negronis on a balmy evening as we watched the piazza in Tricase come to life: children played soccer, holidaying Italian teenagers flirted on benches and their parents sat at restaurants drinking, eating and enjoying the night. Italians really know how to live well.

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Photographer Nicola Sevitt pauses in a doorway while exploring the city of Ostuni. FACING PAGE Polignano a Mare is a town on Italy’s southern Adriatic coast famous for its white pebble beaches.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The courtyard at Masseria Moroseta with a stairway leading to the rooftop; looking out beyond the swimming pool to where the olive groves meet the sea; one of the bedrooms; a vintage Fiat parked at Masseria Moroseta; Pablo, one of Masseria Moroseta’s resident English bulldogs; rock walls are a feature; exploring the streets of Ostuni.

FORMER COUNTRY STYLE staffer Nicola Sevitt left us last year to broaden her horizons — in a quite literal sense. Her well-thumbed passport is rarely packed away for long as this talented lifestyle photographer has already travelled to Europe, South America, Bali, Japan and Mexico. But for Nicola, travel is more than just sightseeing or relaxing on a beach. “Travelling for me is all about soaking in everything a destination has to offer and imagining what it would be like to live in that particular place,” Nicola says. “I look forward to tasting new food, chatting to locals, taking in the architecture, and

Known as the Florence of the south, Lecce is famous for its beautiful architecture. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The small cove of Cala dell’acquaviva; a fruit seller near Canale del Ciolo; Nicola’s bedroom at La Signura Bio Suites in the historical centre of Lecce; the charming kitchen in the apartment; Tricase Porto is a beautiful seaside village; the rustic courtyard at Masseria Uccio in Tricase; a cocktail bar in one of Lecce’s laneways.