POLISHED TO PERFECTION
IS YOUR COMPLEXION LOOKING A LITTLE DULL? JULIETTE WINTER SHARES HOW TO TWEAK YOUR SKINCARE REGIMEN TO GET YOUR GLOW BACK.
There’s a new skin product ingredient around that helps you glow and is good for all skin types.
IT’S BEEN DECADES since there was this much buzz about a skin rejuvenating ingredient. When retinol (a vitamin A derivative) first hit the market, it revolutionised the beauty industry. Retinol helps cells turn over faster, as skin does naturally in youth, which leaves it looking more luminous. There was one significant hitch: not all skin can tolerate retinol. So when bakuchiol came along, offering the same brightening benefits as retinol without redness and peeling, the excitement was palpable.
Bakuchiol, an extract of seeds from the babchi (Psoralea corylifolia) plant, has long been used in Ayurvedic medicine but has only recently stepped into the skincare spotlight in Australia. And experts are singing its praises.
“Bakuchiol is basically a non-animal variant of vitamin A,” says associate professor Dr Greg Goodman from The Dermatology Institute of Victoria. “It’s about the equivalent of retinol but is non-sensitising, so it’s quite good for all skin types.” Studies have shown that bakuchiol can speed up cell turnover without irritating the skin, even if used as often as twice daily.
“Vitamin A products tend to be night-time preparations as they can increase the skin’s photosensitivty. Bakuchiol doesn’t have this effect so it can be used day and night,” says Dr Goodman. Although retinol and bakuchiol aren’t chemically similar in action, they have comparable effects in terms of cell turnover, which creates a smoother, more even complexion.
The other way to boost skin brightness is, of course, by exfoliating regularly (once a week for starters, twice if your skin is healthy and can handle it), says Gina Cook, national training manager at Ella Baché. “Regular exfoliation kickstarts the cellular regeneration process, bringing new skin cells to the surface for a more luminous complexion.”
Exfoliants function in a different way to retinol and bakuchiol. Exfoliation physically sloughs dead cells, delivering more radiant skin. Retinol and bakuchiol, however, act like antioxidants, encouraging cells in deeper skin layers reproduce.
There are many different types of exfoliant, but most fall into two main categories: physical (granules) and chemical (various acids and enzymes). The best option for you depends heavily on your skin type and its condition.
If you choose a physical exfoliant, it’s best to choose one that is very finely milled (rice bran is gentle enough for most skin types) and avoid rough, uneven granules. “Exfoliating is like sandpapering your face,” says Dr Goodman. “It’s important not to overdo it as it disrupts the skin’s barrier function, eliminating protective bacteria, which can lead to more serious problems.”
The alternative is to use a chemical exfoliant, the most common of which are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAS, such as glycolic acid), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAS, such as salicylic acid) and enzymes (such as papain). In very simple terms, AHAS and enzymes remove the ‘glue’ that binds dead skin cells together (great for dry skin), while BHAS break the bond between cells (its deep-cleaning action works well on blackheads).
A recent addition to the chemical exfoliant family is PHAS (polyhydroxy acids), a second-generation AHA that is gentler and therefore more suitable for sensitive skin. Because PHA molecules are larger, they don’t penetrate beyond the skin surface, so are less likely to cause irritation than AHAS and BHAS. They also act as a humectant (a substance that reduces moisture loss) as well as eliminating dead cells. Of course, that doesn’t necessarily mean you should use it more often than a physical exfoliant.
“It’s important to remember that exfoliating eliminates the skin’s natural surface protection, making it more prone to sensitivity, inflammation and irritation,” says Gina. “We often recommend AHAS if the skin is strong and healthy because they help to clean out the pores and eliminate clogging. If you have sensitive or irritated skin, we recommend something gentler, such as an exfoliating gel or an enzyme exfoliant like papain, which works to break down the filament inside the pores.”
While exfoliants tend to produce immediately visible smoother and softer skin, stimulating cell turnover with bakuchiol or retinol takes longer. Retinol and bakuchiol often deliver a more dramatic result. “It takes six weeks or so to reset and normalise the top layer of the skin, which doesn’t have collagen in it,” says Dr Goodman. “Over time, the epidermis (outer layer) signals the dermis (the thicker secondary layer) to produce collagen, which gives the skin strength and elasticity. That process takes up to six months — it’s a bi-modal thing.”
Patience, as they say, is a conquering virtue. Even in the world of beauty.