Wellington guide
PHOTOGRAPHER NICOLA SEVITT TRAVELLED TO NEW ZEALAND’S CAPITAL CITY TO UNCOVER ITS SECRETS.
WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE WELLINGTON FOR A HOLIDAY?
When I was a teenager, my parents took my sister and me on a two-anda-half week campervan trip around the South Island. Although my sister and I almost killed each other, it was one of the most memorable and beautiful family holidays. We loved it so much, we went back the following year! The pristine and idyllic landscape is so unique and close to our shores. I’ve always wanted to go back. Having never visited the North Island and from what I’d read about Wellington, I thought this was a great place to start.
WHAT WERE YOUR FIRST IMPRESSIONS?
I was mesmerised by the deep aqua tint of the ocean, and the way that the lush vegetation kisses the edge of the sea. I loved spotting the gorgeous weatherboard houses dotted among the green hills that surround Wellington — I could have spent days doing this. As we drove closer into town, I noticed lots of old-fashioned corner milk bars and fish and chip shops. It gave me a sense of nostalgia. It felt new yet familiar, like an old friend I hadn’t seen in years. If I were to compare it to anywhere else in the world, I would say it’s like a mix of Hobart and San Francisco.
WHERE DID YOU STAY?
When planning the trip, I wanted to have the experience of being in the city, buti also wanted to see a bit of the countryside as well. We stayed at the QT Wellington for two nights. The hotel provided the perfect base for exploring the city. Every wall and corner of QT Wellington has been adorned with luxurious art and one-off pieces, making it an interesting place to stay. I recommend relaxing in one of the hotel’s bars with a glass of New Zealand’s finest pinot noir or, alternatively, taking a dip in the beautifully designed lap pool, followed by a quick session in the sauna.
The rooms are spacious and the bed was unbelievably comfortable — perfect after a day walking around the streets of Wellington.
Drive one-and-a-half hours out of Wellington and you will come across a serene little hideaway, Kaikoura Lookout at Palliser Ridge. (For more about this beautiful farm stay, see page 104.)
BEST PLACE TO EAT IN TOWN?
Rita in Aro Valley. They offer a beautiful set menu. Every dish and every bite was so memorable and full of flavour. If I had to pick a favourite, the plum tart with fennel flower ice-cream was sensational (I have such a sweet tooth!) The friendly service, atmosphere and quality hospitality made for the most enjoyable dining experience. I can’t wait to return some day. Be sure to order a Negroni here — one of the best I’ve ever had.
DID YOU GO TO ANY WINERIES?
On our way to Kaikoura Lookout, we stopped off at the picturesque Palliser Estate for a wine tasting and I’m so glad we did! If you’re visiting the region, don’t miss this winery. It is known for its pinot noir, however, the sparkling rosé, pinot gris and chardonnay should not be overlooked. The winery currently has two vineyards that are certified organic and hope to have all the vineyards follow in this path by 2025.
IF SOMEONE ONLY HAD ONE DAY IN WELLINGTON, WHAT SHOULD THEY DO?
Start the day with breakfast at the Prefab café — everything here is scrumptious. I recommend ordering one of their delectable pastries to-go for an afternoon snack. Then, pop over the road to No.16 for some retail therapy. It stocks the most exquisite selection of international designers, as well as a beautifully curated recycled section. If you’re an art lover, just next door to No.16 is Hamish Mckay Gallery, which is definitely worth a browse. Head across to Cuba Street for a dose of culture. The street is full of life and filled with great cafés, restaurants and boutiques. While you’re in the area, make your way to Hannah Factory Laneway, a cool little precinct with some great street >
art and a few quirky places to check out, including a chocolate factory! Feeling a little peckish? Head back to Cuba Street for a bite to eat. There are loads of places to choose from, but I would recommend taking a seat at Loretta, Ombra or Floriditas. If you’re starting to slip into a food coma, walk it off with a stroll to the harbourfront. Follow the harbourside pathway around to the iconic and photogenic Clyde Quay Boatsheds. This is a great spot to sit down for a short break. After you feel rejuvenated, continue the path around to Oriental Bay. If the sun is shining and you’re brave enough, go for a quick dip! There are a couple of pontoons floating in the bay which you can swim out to. Look out for the ice-cream truck parked on the main parade and if you have room, order one of the soft-serves covered in 100s and 1000s. This brought me back to my childhood! By now, it should be around 3pm or 4pm. You could opt for a nap at your hotel or, if you fancy an aperitif and some oysters, head to Highwater back on Cuba Street. Then, make your way up to Aro Valley for dinner at Rita. Be sure to make a reservation as the restaurant is designed for an intimate crowd and it is usually fully booked.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
• Rita A small restaurant nestled in a quaint cottage in Aro Valley, a short walk from the centre of Wellington. It offers a three-course set menu, made with local and seasonal ingredients. Dining here feels like you’re being treated to the finest food in the comfort of your best friend’s stylish home. 89 Aro Street, Aro Valley, Wellington, New Zealand, +64 (04) 385 4555, rita.co.nz
• Loretta With its minimalist design, exposed concrete and beautiful ceramics, Loretta has a timeless charm. The menu is simple yet thoughtful, with subtle flavourful touches such as the fried eggs with tarragon. Order this and the croque madame to share with a friend; you won’t regret it. 181 Cuba Street, Te Aro, Wellington, New Zealand, +64 (04) 384 2213, loretta.net.nz
• Prefab A Wellington institution in the centre of town, Prefab is outstanding — these guys really know what they are doing. As someone who has had their fair share of brunches, I have to say the menu here is unique and refreshing. Don’t miss this one. Expect a crowd. 14 Jessie Street,
Te Aro, Wellington, New Zealand, +64 (04) 385 2263, pre-fab.co.nz
• Customs Coffee We’d had too much caffeine once we finally spotted this place, but I’ve heard it’s one of Wellington’s best coffee haunts. Grab an outdoor table in the sunshine.
39 Ghuznee Street, Te Aro, Wellington, New Zealand, +64 (04) 385 2129, coffeesupreme.com
WHAT TO DO
• Clyde Quay Boatsheds These historic boatsheds are a must-visit when in Wellington. 103 Oriental Parade, Oriental Bay, Wellington, New Zealand.
• Mt Victoria Head up here first thing in the morning for the most fantastic 360-degree view of Wellington. Lookout Road, Hataitai, Wellington, New Zealand.
• Botanic gardens Only minutes from the CBD, the Wellington Botanic Garden is home to some of the oldest exotic trees in New Zealand and offers expansive views of Wellington. 101 Glenmore Street, Kelburn, Wellington, New Zealand, wellingtongardens.nz
• Road trips Wellington is the perfect base for exploring the North Island countryside. Hire a car and head out to the village of Martinborough, which is surrounded by wineries, including Palliser Estate, 96 Kitchener Street, Martinborough, New Zealand,
+64 (06) 306 9019, palliser.co.nz
For more information on travelling to Wellington, visit wellingtonnz.com