COUNTRY CHEF: VILLAGE LIFE
MICHELIN STAR CHEF ADAM NEWELL IS CREATING FRENCH-INSPIRED FARE CLOSE TO WELLINGTON ON NEW ZEALAND’S NORTH ISLAND.
Adam Newell has created a charming French bistro in the countryside edging New Zealand’s Wellington.
MOVING TO THE WINE
village of Martinborough, an hour’s drive east of Wellington, has been a breath of fresh air for Michelin star chef and now boutique hotel owner, Adam Newell. Along with his New Zealand-born wife Nicola, 48, and two daughters, 10-year-old Georgia and Poppy, seven, they settled here two years ago and opened the doors of Union Square Bistro & Bar in the newly renovated Martinborough Hotel.
“The community has really welcomed us. You can walk down the street and say ‘Hi’ to people and it’s all genuine. It gives you a fuzzy feeling, whereas in the city, you get lost a little,” 54-year-old Adam says.
Originally from Cornwall in the United Kingdom, Adam has worked in some of the world’s finest establishments, including London’s Claridge’s and Le Gavroche, where he trained with the legendary Roux brothers, and The Point, a luxury retreat in Upstate New York that was formerly part of the Rockefeller estate. He earned his Michelin star as head chef of Fulham Road Restaurant after returning to London in 1995.
It was in Japan, during a stint with Le Cordon Bleu, that Adam met Nicola and his life took a new direction. The couple moved to Auckland before eventually returning to Nicola’s home town of Wellington in 2000 and opened the popular Zibibbo restaurant, which they sold two years ago.
Martinborough had been on the radar for some time, as Adam and Nicola own a nearby olive grove on the Ruamahanga River and produce cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil under their Gladstone Olive Company label.
So when the opportunity came up to buy the historic Martinborough Hotel, built in 1882, they didn’t think twice. Its location, elegant facade and great bones were a perfect fit for what they had in mind. “It had the right look and we just put our mark on it. We wanted a French-style, buzzy bistro with good local ingredients,” Adam explains.
Adam offers simple, classic French dishes and changes his menu regularly to keep it fresh for local diners and visitors. The restaurant’s location in the heart of the Classic New Zealand Wine Trail means there is also an abundance of wineries close by, so he has plenty of wine options to accompany his dishes. “The pinot noir and chardonnay from the area are second to none,” he says. “It really is such an awesome place to go shopping, with the cheese, meat and seafood from the coast — and people pop in with products all the time. We try to support them as much as we can.”
The couple plans to build a home at their olive grove, but for now enjoy living in Martinborough. “It’s a simpler lifestyle with no traffic lights and the school is just down the road. We love the country lifestyle and great community,” Adam says. For more information, visit unionsquare.co.nz
“We wanted a French-style, buzzy bistro with good local ingredients. And we love the country lifestyle.”
DUCK LIVER PARFAIT WITH PINOT NOIR POACHED PEARS
Begin this recipe at least a day ahead
Serves 12 as a starter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
500g fresh duck livers*
1 onion, peeled, finely chopped
1 thyme sprig, leaves picked
2 garlic cloves, peeled, finely chopped
2 tablespoons brandy
2 cups pure cream
125g unsalted butter, chopped
50g duck fat, chilled** extra 20g unsalted butter,
at room temperature lavosh and mustard fruits***, to serve
PINOT NOIR POACHED PEARS
4 firm pears
2 cinnamon sticks
4 cloves
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
3 cups pinot noir
1 whole orange, halved
“The pinot noir and chardonnay from the area are second to none.”
Line a 1.25L-capacity terrine mould or loaf pan with plastic wrap, allowing it to hang over 2 long sides.
Heat half of oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Add half of livers and cook, stirring, for 1–2 minutes to sear and colour (they should be rare in centre). Transfer to a blender or food processor. Repeat with remaining oil and livers.
Return pan to a low heat. Add onion and thyme and cook, stirring, for 4–5 minutes or until onion is softened but not coloured. Add garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Increase heat to high. Carefully add brandy and simmer for 2 minutes or until liquid is slightly reduced (be careful if using a gas stove as brandy may ignite and flambé). Add cream and butter. Cook, stirring, until butter has just melted. Transfer to a blender or food processor with livers and process until smooth. Season if needed. Pass mixture through a fine sieve into prepared mould. Smooth top and cover with overhanging plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight to set.
To make pinot pears, peel pears and place in a large bowl with cinnamon, cloves, sugar and pinot noir. Squeeze in juice from orange halves, then add orange halves to mixture in bowl. Cover and set aside overnight for flavours to infuse and pears to turn red.
Transfer pear mixture to a large saucepan over a high heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and cover surface of liquid with a piece of baking paper. Simmer for 45–60 minutes or until pears are just cooked through. Cool pears in syrup.
Unwrap plastic from top of parfait. Place a board or plate over terrine mould. Invert parfait onto a board and remove plastic wrap. Place duck fat and extra butter in a bowl and whisk until light and creamy. Spread a thin layer over sides and top of parfait. Refrigerate for 2 hours to set.
Cut parfait into slices and serve with sliced pinot pears, lavosh and mustard fruits.
* Substitute chicken livers.
** Available at specialty food stores, and some supermarkets, butchers and delicatessens.
*** Available at specialty food stores and delicatessens.
GAZPACHO WITH LEMON & THYME PRAWNS
Serves 4
1 large red capsicum, deseeded, chopped
½ yellow capsicum, deseeded, chopped
1 small red onion, peeled, chopped
2 celery sticks, chopped
1 Lebanese cucumber, peeled, deseeded, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled, chopped
½ long red chilli, chopped
400g can whole tomatoes
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Tabasco, to taste toasted sourdough, to serve
LEMON & THYME PRAWNS
2 lemons, plus extra wedges to serve
3 thyme sprigs
24 large green prawns, peeled with tails intact
Place capsicum, onion, celery, cucumber, garlic and chilli in a large bowl. Add tomatoes and use your hands to gently break them apart. Add Worcestershire, vinegar and oil and set aside for 1 hour to macerate and infuse. Transfer to a blender and process until well combined. Season with Tabasco and salt and pepper. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a large jug and refrigerate until required.
To make lemon & thyme prawns, use a vegetable peeler to remove zest from lemons. Place zest in a saucepan. Cut peeled lemons in half and squeeze juice into pan. Add lemon halves and thyme. Fill pan with water and season heavily with salt. Bring to a simmer. Add prawns and cook for 2–3 minutes or until just cooked through. Remove prawns with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Stir gazpacho and pour into small serving glasses or bowls. Drizzle with extra oil. Serve with toast, prawns and extra lemon wedges.
“It’s such an awesome place to go shopping, with cheese, meats and seafood from the coast.”
PAN-SEARED FISH WITH CAULIFLOWER PUREE & EDAMAME SALAD
Serves 4
1kg fresh skinless white fish fillets (such as snapper)
100g unsalted butter
2 tablespoons capers
½ cup romesco sauce* snow pea tendrils, to serve
CAULIFLOWER PUREE
200g cauliflower florets
300ml milk
1 garlic clove, peeled, crushed
EDAMAME SALAD
½ cauliflower, cut into small florets
300g sourdough, cut into 1cm cubes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
200g frozen edamame**, thawed, podded
½ red capsicum, finely chopped
1 lemon, rind finely grated, juiced
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
To make puree, place cauliflower, milk and garlic in a saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover surface of mixture with a piece of baking paper. Reduce heat to low and cook for 20–25 minutes or until cauliflower is soft. Transfer to a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Season to taste. Keep warm.
To make salad, preheat oven to 180°C. Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Place cauliflower and bread on prepared tray and drizzle with oil. Bake, turning halfway through cooking, for 8–10 minutes or until slightly golden. Cool on tray. Transfer croutons and cauliflower to a large bowl. Add edamame, capsicum, lemon rind and juice and parsley. Toss to combine. Season to taste.
Season fish with salt and pepper. Heat half of the butter in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Cook the fish for 3–4 minutes each side or until cooked through. Add remaining butter and capers and cook until butter starts to foam. Spoon butter over fish to baste. Remove from heat.
Divide puree between serving bowls. Add dollops of romesco sauce, then top with fish, salad and a spoonful of capers and pan juices. Scatter with snow pea tendrils to serve. *Available at specialty food stores and delicatessens. Substitute roasted red capsicum dip. **Immature soy beans found in the freezer section at supermarkets.
VANILLA BEAN PANNA COTTA WITH POACHED APRICOTS & NUT BRITTLE
Serves 8
4 (20g) gold-strength gelatine leaves*
4 cups pure cream
1 cup caster sugar
1½ tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
POACHED APRICOTS
1½ cups caster sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste
8 apricots, halved, stones removed
NUT BRITTLE
2 cups caster sugar
200g slivered almonds
Place gelatine in a bowl of cold water and set aside for 5 minutes to soften.
Place cream, sugar, rum and vanilla in a saucepan over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Squeeze excess water from gelatine, then add gelatine to simmering cream mixture. Stir until gelatine is dissolved and combined. Strain mixture through a fine sieve into a large jug. Pour between four 125ml-capacity dariole moulds. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until set.
To make poached apricots, place sugar, vanilla and 4 cups water in a large, wide saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring constantly to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat and add apricots. Simmer for 6–8 minutes or until just soft. Cool in syrup.
To make nut brittle, line a baking tray with baking paper. Place sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a frying pan over a high heat. Cook, swirling and tilting pan until sugar has dissolved (do not stir with a spoon as it can cause it to crystallise). Cook, without swirling, until caramel is golden or sugar reaches 125°C on a kitchen thermometer. Add almonds and briefly stir to coat. Immediately transfer to prepared tray. Cool. Crack brittle into pieces, then roughly chop.
Dip dariole moulds into a bowl of hot water for 30 seconds, then turn panna cottas onto serving plates. Add apricots and spoon over syrup. Sprinkle with nut brittle to serve. *Available at specialty food stores, delicatessens and some supermarkets.