WAKE-UP CALL
IF YOUR MORNING LATTE MOTIVATES YOU TO GET UP AND GO, CONSIDER THIS: CAFFEINE MIGHT WAKE UP YOUR SKIN, TOO.
We all know that caffeine gives us a much-needed morning pep-up. Turns out it also delivers a beauty boost for tired, lacklustre complexions!
WE ARE WITHOUT DOUBT a nation of devoted latte lovers. “Coffee consumption in Australia is worth $8 billion, with a predicted growth of 3.4 per cent,” says Katy Bacon, Murad’s sales and education manager, Asia Pacific. “That’s a lot of coffee!”
While there is much debate about the skin health pros and cons of downing your daily cup(s) of Joe, experts say there are some clear upsides to dosing the skin with topical caffeine.
“Coffee is bang on-trend in the skincare aisle but, as with your morning latte, not all products containing caffeine are equal,” explains Katy. “Like your relationship with your barista, the extract from coffee needs to be just right.”
That’s particularly true if you suffer from puffiness and dark circles under your eyes, for which the right dose of caffeine can work wonders. “Caffeine draws excess fluid out of cells, creating a tightening and toning effect,” says Mia Longano, national training manager for Dr Spiller skincare. “Caffeine is also great for dark circles as it helps improve micro-circulation by dilating the tiny blood vessels found in the eye area.”
After a late night, a caffeine-infused eye cream might be just the wake-up call your puffy peepers need but, as Mia concedes, it’s less effective if the cause is hereditary, medical or allergy-related. “Some darkness may be attributed to pigmentation, which can often be triggered by trauma or chronic inflammation,” says Mia.
A caffeinated eye cream is best applied in the morning as it can have a dehydrating effect on skin overnight.
“Caffeine assists in moving stagnant lymph and waste cells that sit under the eye area,” says Kimberley Duck from Endota. “It can be used to kickstart dermal drainage around the eye in the morning when our skin activity can be dormant.”
While caffeine is common in eye and thigh creams thanks to its circulation-boosting effects, it can also act as a positive pick-me-up for your complexion as a whole. “Researchers have found that the topical application of caffeine aids in getting that ‘getup-and-glow’ effect,” says Katy.
“It is particularly helpful for dull, devitalised complexions that are seeing the visual effects of stress and fatigue.” In fact, really stressed-out skin might have the most to gain from the antioxidant benefits of caffeine. “In a recent study, it was shown that caffeine actually helped prevent transdermal water loss by around 27 per cent, so it’s a safe choice if you’re concerned about sensitivity or dryness as increased hydration helps to protect the skin’s barrier,” says Katy.
If you tend towards redness (or couperose) skin – even the rosacea kind – a daily dose of caffeine can help constrict the tiny blood vessels in the skin, thus reducing redness (temporarily, at least). New studies have shown that caffeine might even help fight fine lines. “In a recent in vivo study, caffeine was shown to increase protein expression by increasing skin thickness and resiliency, with a decrease in the wrinkle area by over 35 per cent,” says Katy, who adds that caffeine also boosts the efficacy of other anti-ageing ingredient heroes like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and vitamin B (niacinamide).
Moreover, it’s a natural ingredient and even ticks the sustainability box: leftover coffee grounds get a second life when used for body scrubs. However, if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to proceed with caution when considering exfoliating, even on the body. “Coffee grounds can be fairly harsh on delicate skins,” says Katy. “I recommend adding some nourishing oils to avoid damaging skin and to keep skin soft and hydrated.”
Perhaps one of the most exciting new findings is that caffeine could be a useful, natural ingredient to fight skin damage from long-term pollution and sun exposure. “Caffeine has potent antioxidant properties, helping to protect cells against UV radiation and aiding in the slowdown of photoageing within the skin,” says Katy. “Research shows that the oily extract from coffee effectively suppressed the Uvb-induced breakdown of collagen, which is what gives skin its firmness.”
These are all positive signs that caffeine might be more than a quick pick-me-up: it firms and tightens, reduces redness and puffiness, and works as a potent antioxidant to bust free radicals that are hell-bent on causing skin havoc. As far as your skincare routine goes, there’s clearly no reason to kick the caffeine habit. Espresso eye cream, anyone?
“Coffee is bang on-trend in the skincare aisle but, as with your morning latte, not all products containing caffeine are equal.”
BEAUTY AND THE BEANS
Get your caffeine fix with one of these energising skincare options.
• Dab cooling Trilogy COQ10 Eye Recovery Concentrate ($36.95 for 10ml) around your eyes for a firming dose of caffeine that helps reduce dark circles, plus coq10 for strengthening and protecting.
• Smooth this Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum ($140 for 40ml) over your face and neck, including your eye area, to target stress-induced ageing. Dullness, fine lines, uneven and puffy skin are all targeted with relaxing, smoothing and hydrating ingredients, including caffeine to de-puff and tone.
• Wake up with Dr Spiller Eye Repair Ampoule ($110 for 5x5ml ampoules) and you’ll have brighter, smoother eyes, thanks to vasoconstricting caffeine, aloe vera and silk.
• Don’t be shy with this Clinique Moisture Surge 72-Hour Auto-replenishing Hydrator ($65 for 50ml), infused with caffeine, activated aloe water and hyaluronic acid. Use it on your face (as a moisturiser or mask), neck, décolletage, elbows or anywhere that needs serious moisture that keeps hydrating for 72 hours – even if you wash your face!
• Nourish your skin in the air (if you’re lucky enough to get on a plane) with Lano Face Base The Aussie Flyer ($26 for 60ml). It’s packed with caffeine and ginger to boost circulation, refreshing mint and the brand’s hero ingredient, hydrating lanolin.
• Treating dark circles, wrinkles and puffiness, Sisley Supremya Eyes At Night ($365 for 15ml) is loaded with antioxidant-rich acai, caffeine to reduce puffiness and rejuvenating plum seed oil.
• Supercharged with five per cent caffeine and green tea leaf extract, The Ordinary Caffeine Solution 5% +EGCG ($12.70 for 30ml) is serious about reducing puffiness under the eyes and helping to lighten dark circles.