THE PERFECT SETUP
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There are no strict rules for how to set up your bike, but there are general principles to guide you. Having the correct setup means that your bike fits you for the type(s) of riding you do. This could be for more speed, better aerodynamics or comfort.
Getting the right fit means more than just having the right size frame; it means your bike fits you at all the main contact points – handlebar, saddle and pedals – so you don’t have to adopt an uncomfortable position. If it feels right then it probably is, the exception to the rule is when your body has become so used to riding in a bad position that it has adapted to cope and that now feels normal.
The dominant dimension on a road bike is the reach to the bar. The reference measurement from your frame is a horizontal line from the centre of the head-tube at the top to the centre of the seat-tube (or the seatpost on compact frames, which have sloping top-tubes that join the seat-tube lower down). If you’re between 5ft 3in and 5ft 7in you’re likely to need a frame with a 52 or 53cm top-tube. Riders in the 5ft 8in-5ft 11in range will need 54 or 56cm top-tubes, and 6ft-6ft 4in riders need 56 or 58cm.
Although the reach to the bar on a road bike is both forward and down, if it’s correctly set up then you should be able to reach all parts of the bar without any stress. You should be able to reach the top with your arms not quite straight and your back at an angle around 45 degrees.
The reach to the hoods should be longer and lower but still comfortable for extended periods. You should be able to remain in the drops for long periods and on fast downhill sections where you might need a strong grip on the brakes.
A common error is to have the reach too long and low, especially for people with shorter torsos. Remedy this by flipping the stem to raise the bar, or fitting a shorter stem. You can flip the stem back as you gain confidence.
SET YOURSELF UP
In your socks, measure your inside leg. Hold a level up in your crotch, or a book at right angles to a wall, or push the end of the tape measure into your sit bone where you rest on the saddle.
Multiply this measurement by 109 per cent to get a rough idea of the distance from your saddle top to pedal (at full extension in line with the seat-
“Don’t alter your natural style for the setup as you’ll just revert back when you get on the road
tube). Be prepared to modify it by up to 15mm either side to compensate for different riding styles. Set the saddle flat with scope to put the tip slightly up for men and slightly down for women (up to +/- 8mm from level). Set the saddle height to your 109 per cent length and get on, wearing your cycling shorts and shoes.
On a turbo, warm up enough that you start pedalling naturally, then stop with your leg at full extension. Your foot should be flat or slightly toe down, but don’t alter your natural style for the setup as you’ll just revert back when you get out on the road.
When you’re happy with your saddle height, bring one pedal to the three o’clock position and drop a plumb line down from the side of the kneecap. The plumb line should drop through the pedal axle – if it doesn’t, move the saddle forwards or backwards to correct it. The axle should be 5-7mm behind the ball of your foot.
Concentrate on the reach to the bar. On the tops, you should be relatively upright, comfortable, and happy on the brake hoods. Adjust the reach by swapping the stem for a shorter or longer one. Spend time in the drops to make sure the brake and gear levers are accessible. A good starting point is to create a horizontal platform from the shoulders of the bar onto the hoods. This provides a comfortable cruising position while still allowing access to the levers from the drops.
Check the bar width by comparing it with the measurement across your shoulders, and be prepared to go wider or narrower accordingly – 38cm is narrow and 44cm is wide. A wide bar opens your arms and has the effect of dragging you forward, which isn’t good news for smaller, slighter riders.