Tubeless tool­kit

Cycling Plus - - GEAR GUIDE -

(1) SEALANT

There are loads of dif­fer­ent sealants avail­able from thin la­tex (best for min­i­mum ef­fect on ride feel of light­weight road tyres) to ‘heavy duty/ en­duro’ sealants, which in­clude ex­tra clog­ging agents.

(2) MILKIT

This new valve and sealant sy­ringe kit from Swiss com­pany Milkit can po­ten­tially take a ton of pain out of in­stal­la­tion. The valves have cun­ning pres­sure seal­ing bases so the tyre stays up even with the valve core re­moved for faster air in­put. You can also in­ject/re­move sealant cleanly through the valve to avoid mess and waste. Just make sure you drop tyre pres­sure be­low 20psi and lock the feed pipe as you stick the sealant sy­ringe in or you’ll get a face full.

(3) VALVES

Dif­fer­ent rims of­ten come with dif­fer­ent valve shapes, but valves with rounded/cone ends (Milkit, Sch­walbe, WTB, Stan’s and oth­ers) tend to work best with most wheels.

(4) LUBE

Helps the tyre slip evenly into place. Wash­ing up liq­uid works too.

(5) COM­PRES­SOR

If fran­tic pumping isn’t your thing, or you end up with an awk­ward rim/tyre com­bi­na­tion you’re strug­gling to pop into place, a com­pres­sor is the an­swer, such as an Air­shot (£49.99) or sim­i­lar will be a lot neater. Al­ter­na­tively, just get a mo­torised com­pres­sor (£70-plus). Be­ware of garage fore­court air­lines though as they of­ten use much higher pres­sures/dump vol­umes than are safe for your rims and tyres.

(6) TAPE

Spoke or con­struc­tion holes in rim beds need to be sealed with tape to make them tubeless. Make sure the tape is wide enough to cover the whole bed.

(7) PRES­SURE GAUGE

Take the guess work out of set­ting up your tyres with an ac­cu­rate pres­sure gauge. The Sch­walbe Air­max Pro dig­i­tal ver­sion here costs £11.99.

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